I am often asked how I know what's new in beauty. The answer is simple. I never stop looking at people, magazines, movies or anything else that catches my eye. I have the tremendous advantage of living in New York and L.A. and often traveling abroad. I am always walking the streets, checking out everyone who passes me by. I've learned what works and what doesn't simply by keeping my eyes wide open and my mouth shut. Believe me, there is nothing more embarrassing than being caught mouthing the words, "What was she thinking?"

I have recently started to use my phone camera to document some stellar beauty moments and some all-time beauty faux pas. Below are pictures of women I passed on the streets while filming "Ambush Hits the Road" who made attempts to look their best but didn't quite get it right. I think we can all gleam a few beauty do's and don'ts from these snapshots.

Pretty Color, But Not for Hair
Everyone who watches "Ambush Makeover" on the Today Show knows that I have a special place in my heart for redheads. I think that reds are often one of the most special and flattering color choices. Truly beautiful red hair should look like you could have been born with it if you'd been incredibly lucky. This means you must be aware of the tone of the red shade you choose. Natural red hair has either a golden or copper base color. Reds that have cherry or burgundy hues should be the color of cars, not hair.


Shampoo Is Oily Hairs Best Friend
Fine, straight hair is often envied by women with curls or frizz. It often falls into place with little or no effort and has a shine that most women only dream about. There is a downside to this hair with perpetual shine. It needs to be shampooed daily; otherwise, it can look excessively thin. When hair is not clean, the part can look extra wide, almost giving a balding look. This hair must be shampooed frequently to keep it looking full bodied. Conditioner should only be used on the tips of the hair shaft.


When Frizz Takes Over
Curly hair needs to be controlled. Curly hair is naturally drier than straight hair and can often have a frizzy texture. I often see woman with this texture who don't have a clue how to handle it. They either try to blow it straight or leave it curly. It often ends up looking like fried, dried out-hair that is in horrible condition. It's not! Curly hair should not be shampooed frequently, but it does need constant conditioning to maintain a healthy look. Styling products with low alcohol content will hold the curl in place and prevent hair from looking damaged.


Who Are You Fooling?
Hair extensions can be the perfect solution for women who want to make their fine hair appear thicker or to add a few extra inches to their hair. Hair extensions that are applied correctly look totally natural. When they are applied incorrectly, on the other hand, they can look like you are wearing your pet on your head. The texture, color and length must always blend with your natural hair. Extensions that are too long, thick or thin just look wrong.



If you identify with any of these pictures, don't panic. Visit your hair stylist and ask for advice. If your hair isn't right, a little cut or color can fix almost any problem. Most likely a small change will make a big difference in the way you look. Here's to the new you!

Standing behind the chair doing color for many more years than I care to admit, I have heard about hundreds of hair myths. Most myths were handed down through the generations from grandmother to mother to daughter. Some of these are based on fact, others contain half-truths and many are total fiction. Many rational people hold these hair myths to be true even if they make absolutely no sense. I wrote a previous blog entry addressing some of the most common hair myths. Today we will examine 10 common beauty myths and determine whether they're fact or fiction.

MYTH: Never shampoo your hair right before you have it colored.

FACT: When your hair is dirty it is harder for the colorist to determine the exact color of your hair, whether it has oxidized, and if subtle changes might have occurred during the course of the touch-up. Clean hair enables your colorist to have a clearer picture of the proper adjustments that need to occur to keep your color perfect. Hair color also takes better on clean hair. If you do have a sensitive scalp and are worried about a reaction to the coloring process, gently wash your hair. Do not scrub your scalp.


MYTH: Your hair can get used to shampoos and conditioners.

FACT: Shampoos and conditioners tend either to either be light and clean or heavy and conditioning. If you use one product line exclusively, your hair can become overly clean and fly away or excessively conditioned and weighted down. It is best to have a couple of different hair care lines in your shower so you will always be prepared for your hair needs.


MYTH: Lemons lighten your hair.

FACT: Lemon juice will minimally lighten your hair, but only if you go out in the sun. Lemons will lighten fine hair best. If your hair is a light brown shade or darker, lemons can turn your hair orange. Instead of lemons, it is best to use over-the-counter hair color. Hair color contains toners and conditioners that will consistently keep your color in check and hair in great condition.


MYTH: Beer adds body and shine.

FACT: Warm flat beer in a spray bottle is a great setting lotion that adds shine. The scent of beer dissipates as the hair dries, leaving you with a smooth and glossy finish.

The alarm rings. You barely open your eyes, extend your hand, and immediately turn off the horribly intrusive sound. The room goes quiet and for a minute before you throw yourself out of bed you enjoy the last minutes of quiet solitude before your day begins.  Next you jump in the shower and after drying off, you put on your softest robe and start to comb and style your hair. The low hum of the dryer begins. You blow dry your hair as you do every morning. As you finish drying it, you brush your hair into place. You look in the mirror and that’s when your perfect morning falls apart. Your hair just doesn't look good.  In fact, it looks more than a little rough. You are having a bad hair day. You panic and wonder what to do next. You have no more time to redo your hair. You are already behind schedule. You throw your hair in a ponytail and run out the door. Your mood instantly changes. Your only thought is “What went wrong?”

You might wonder how I have such insights into a bad hair day. Well I have lived them. Not with my hair, which is cut short enough that not much can go wrong. I literally shampoo and comb my hair with my fingers. As many of you know, I share my office with my publicist Leigh. Leigh has worked with me in different capacities since she was 18 years old. Leigh’s hair is her crowning glory and she loves to wear different looks every day. When her hair is right she feels like she can take on the world. She will be sitting at her desk looking picture-perfect while the office is buzzing. The phones are constantly ringing as the emails and text fill her computer. She talks to editors, pitches segments to the “Today Show” and talks to almost every client to make sure that nothing or no one has passed her by.

On the rare occasion that she is having a bad hair day, however, she hides behind her desk and is all but invisible. I asked Leigh how she avoids a dreaded bad hair day and she answered me in a text. This is typical of Leigh. This way she could “talk” to me without interrupting her four or five other conversations. Here is her text straight from my iPhone:

Talk about the old one-two punch. The news of the last two weeks started with the chant "time for change" at the Democratic convention. There was a small intermission that was filled with the terror that New Orleans could potentially face from hurricane Gustav. This was immediately followed by the Republican convention. A feeling of deja vu occurred as both John McCain and Sarah Palin also were chanting about the need for change. As I was thinking about their call for change, I realized that I, too, am constantly asking people to consider making a change. I hope I am not sending a subliminal message that I think everyone needs a makeover. My call for change is not because I think you look terrible. I only suggest change to keep you aware of all your options. These changes do not have to be radical or extreme. In fact, what I usually suggest is a series of small changes to keep you looking your best.

I think that most people intuitively know when they need to make a change in their look. They just don't know what to do. Unfortunately, this can paralyze or slow down the change process. Here are some easy tips to keep you looking great and up to date.

1) The easiest way to figure out what you need to be your most beautiful is to ask your hairdresser for advice. If you are not satisfied with your hairdresser's advice, go to other salons for a consultation. It's always a bonus to have someone look at you with fresh eyes. Consultations are usually free and are a great way to stimulate change. Always be sure you understand your hairdresser's vision. The best way to do this is to bring pictures to your consultation. Photographs will prevent any miscommunication.

2) Going through a tough life moment is never time for a new look. I have had many women ask me for a radical new look when they suspect their mates are cheating or they are going through a break-up. I always do my best to slow down this change. It's best to make changes when you are not in an emotional state. Better you should treat yourself to a weekly salon blow dry or have your makeup professionally done.

3) Keep your eye out for great new looks. Watch movies and TV. Comb magazines and newspapers. Surf the web. You will be surprised by the fashion sense you will develop by keeping your eyes wide open.

4) Accept your hair's texture. Always be sure that your new hair style is compatible with your hair texture. Fine hair separates if it's too long and can break if it has to be constantly colored. Curly hair blown straight every day can begin to look dull.

5) Keep what you like, change what you don't. If your hair doesn't look great, change it. When you look at your hair, notice what you don't like. Is your hair too long? Is it doing nothing for you? Then it's time for a new haircut. Is your color faded and oxidized? Is it dull or over bleached from summer sun? Then it's time to color your hair.

Change is good only if it's a good change. A good change is one that makes you look better. Look in the mirror and decide if a change is right for you!

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More from Louis Licari

• Try on new hairstyles from Louis Licari with Makeover-o-Matic
• Get more info from the Today show on iVillage

Are you sick and tired of bad hair days? I mean, really, is there anything more heartbreaking? There is nothing more frustrating than trying to get it together for a special night and having your hair flop. You can have on killer shoes, perfect-fitting jeans and your favorite top, and still look like a Lindsay Lohan mug shot!

When your hair doesn't look good, it doesn't matter what you are wearing, you don't look good. Your hair is your most important fashion accessory. To help prevent this beauty tragedy from ruining one more night in 2008, I came up with five simple tips to help guarantee great looking hair all year long:

1. First thing's first! A great hair cut and hair color are key to looking extraordinary all year long. This provides the foundation to ensure your hair will look good every day.

TIP - Keep it real! Pick a color and cut that works with your hair texture and hair color.

TIP - Note the two year rule. If your are wearing the exact same style and cut for two years or longer, it's time for a change. This does not mean you have to have a dramatic change every two years. The smallest changes will keep you looking modern. It can be as simple as a change of part, bangs or no bangs, or trimming your hair one inch.

2. Stay within a few shades of your natural color. This is the perfect way to make sure your new color compliments your skin tone.

BEAUTY WARNING! - If you have to wear more make-up to make your new hair color work, you have picked the wrong color. That added plus of staying within your own color range is that your re-growth will be minimal.

3. Use the correct styling products for your hair. Use lighter products on fine hair that add volume without weighing your hair down. Mousses and root lift products work best on fine hair. Heavy creams work best on thick, coarse hair. They add control without making hair look stiff or frozen in place. Silicone serums and light creams work best for controlling frizzies on all hair textures.

4. Mood swings! The easy way to instantly change your look is with a hair accessory. You can change the look of your style in a split second. This is a great way to go from day to night. Hair accessories are appropriate for almost any age. Rule of thumb, over forty, keep it simple.

5. It's okay to cheat! Clip-on hair is perfect for everything from bad hair days to party nights. Pony tails are always in. Tie hair back, and clip on your fantasy hair. You will look perpetually chic.

TIP - Avoid thick hair pieces. Thin pieces look much more natural when clipped on your hair. The best part is you take it off at the end of the day. Clip on hair is not harmful to your hair.

I think the first tip of today's post is the most important: A great hair cut and color is the best way to look good every day, all year long.

Play it safe. Work with your hair texture and accent your natural color and you will look great every day. The rest is easy!

Want to learn Louis Licari's five secrets to improve your locks in 2008?

Watch the segment from TODAY: Here's to having better hair in 2008!

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More from Louis Licari

• Try on hairstyles by Louis Licari on Makeover-O-Matic!