iVillage - Hair and There

The World Has Changed: Men Have to Look Good, Too!

2009-11-18T21:39:42Z

It was Sunday morning, the first day of the "Ambush hits the road" trip. My wake-up call was at the un-Godly hour of 4:45 a.m. After a few minutes of listening to my clock radio, which I had purposely set at a hideously obnoxious radio station, I stumbled out of bed to my coffee machine. It literally takes less than a minute for the coffee to brew, but as I waited for my cup of java it seemed to take forever. I took a few sips and felt myself coming to life. After one, two--okay--three cups of coffee, I was in fast-forward mode.

Being the compulsive fanatic that I am, I unpacked the bag that I had packed the night before and then packed it again to be sure everything was in order and that I hadn't forgotten anything. There is nothing more frustrating than being on a road trip, especially one like this when you're scheduled to be on TV in a different city every day, and discovering you left something at home. You literally don't have an extra second to shop. It's the perfect example of: "you snooze you lose."

My packing lunacy finished, and I ran to the bathroom. At that moment, I thought about how grateful I am that I am a man, and that getting ready would only take a few minutes. All I had to do was floss, brush my teeth, shave, shower, whip on my clothes and run out the door. That's really not that hard to do. At the same time, I thought of the women getting ready for the same trip. They were probably blow drying their hair and applying makeup to get ready for our extra-early start.

But then, as I started to shave, I noticed my sideburns looked a bit grey. They definitely looked too grey to be on TV. I found my coloring stash, mixed it together and placed it on my sideburns with a Q-tip so I could continue shaving while the greys were being covered.

Getting ready was going to take a few more minutes than planned. And it made me realize that the days of shower, shave and out-the-door are finished.

The world has changed. Metrosexuals no longer make up only a small percentage of the male population. All guys are expected to look good. And, looking good takes time. The responsibility of looking good is no longer exclusive to women. But there is a difference between a man's grooming and a woman's beauty routine. A woman can look like she made an effort to look good. A man should never look like he did. His grooming should always look effortless.

Today's guys' grooming guide is more complicated. Here are a few items on the checklist that nobody even considered until now:

1. Eyebrow grooming: Keep them trimmed by cutting the exceptionally long hairs of your brow to their proper length. This will immediately give you a cleaner look. Never pluck your brow unless you look like a gorilla or have a unibrow.

2. Pedicures are cool: There is nothing more horrible than feet that are in bad condition. Men often ignore their feet unless they have a fungus because they are difficult to keep clean and groomed. (One reason may be because of their location all the way down there. Most men aren't as flexible as women and have a harder time reaching their toes.) Today, more and more men are coming to the salon for pedicures. It's not just a girlie thing to do anymore. It is also one of the most relaxing and cleansing experiences available. Try it once and you'll be hooked for life.

3. Getting a trim: This can be a bit of a delicate subject that must be addressed. Under-arm hair that is not kept under control can cause excessive perspiration. Under-arm hair should be trimmed monthly. This will help to eliminate any chance of excessive body odor. Many men take this to the next step and do body grooming in more private areas. Wives and girlfriends are always appreciative of this extra effort. Their gratitude is usually very apparent.

4. Nose and ear hairs: This is a problem men have been dealing with for years and that can't be ignored. A stray hair sprouting from the nose or ears is ugly, distracting and annoying. There are special trimmers for these hairs but I have never found one that is particularly effective. There are other solutions. You can have these hairs waxed. Calm down fellas, it's not as painful as it sounds. Hair that has been waxed will stay away for a longer time than the usual trim. You can also have these hairs lazered and they will disappear permanently after three to four applications. This does hurt but only for a minute, and it's worth the effort. The minute of discomfort is soon forgotten and those annoying hairs never return.

The world really has changed. The playing field is almost even. There are more women in powerful positions than ever before. Men must raise the bar of what is expected of them. Good grooming is no longer a choice, it is what's expected. Ladies, spread the word. Print this blog and give it to your nearest and dearest male friend or significant other. I promise you it will be much appreciated.

New York City v. Los Angeles Style

2009-11-11T00:15:06Z

When I first started to think about opening a salon in Los Angeles, I must admit that I had trepidations about the venture. I felt confident that the salon would be a success, but I was slightly unnerved when I thought about the stereotypical Los Angeles aesthetic. In my small mind, I pictured every woman looking like a blond Barbie doll with bleached blond hair, enhanced breasts, and weighing about 99 pounds soaking wet. Much to my surprise I found this to be far from the truth. The typical Los Angeles woman is as unique and sophisticated as her New York counterpart. She knows what looks right on her, which is absolutely imperative for anyone who has a strong personal style. Is one coast more stylish than the other? The answer is no. Are the styles different on each coast? There is no doubt about it.

The Los Angeles woman's sense of style is bit more casual and provocative. It isn't unusual to see women wearing their hair brighter and longer than they do in New York. Many Los Angeles women do still favor shades of blond, but the shades are not like the garish blonds of the Playboy Bunnies on the reality show The Girls Next Door. They have depth, warmth and dimension--just like their New York counterparts. The color is just brighter than it is on the typical New Yorker.

The biggest change I noticed since I opened my Los Angeles salon 15 years ago was that blond was the predominant color of choice, whether it was flattering or not. Now most women have realized they look their most beautiful when they keep closer to their natural tones. Brunettes keep their hair brown, enhancing their natural color with shades of lighter golden browns, ambers, or even going subtly darker.

The extension business in Los Angeles is also very indicative of this aesthetic. Extensions are small strips of hair that are bonded to your natural hair. I would guess that at least 50 percent of my clients have at least a little more hair now than they would naturally. Sometimes the extensions are used to add length, but most are used to add volume. Thicker hair looks both young and sexy.

In general, the New York woman is more toned down, although her hair color is enhanced and far from boring. The color most likely looks somewhat natural. Hair is more groomed and more frequently cut to maintain its definite shape. A common misconception is that the cuts are usually short, practical and professional. Most cuts are of various lengths and have a strong sense of style with an edge to them that looks incredibly chic. Many New York women do wear their hair long, but they tend to pull it back in a low ponytail or twist by day, letting it out at night. The hair looks great both up and down. There is also something incredibly sexy watching a woman nonchalantly put her up or take it down. Most men find this intoxicating.

Looking young and sexy is a predominant theme for Los Angeles women. This is why they keep their hair longer and brighter, and even wear more provocative clothing. I have a theory about this tendency. In New York, people walk everywhere. They are constantly on crowed streets with all types of people around them. Most women find comfort in blending in on the streets of New York. They want to be noticed only when they choose. In Los Angeles, on the other hand,everyone drives a car. Most people drive from valet to valet and walk a few steps to their destination. The car provides privacy and protection. This allows for a much looser overall appearance. Another factor that can't be ignored is that Los Angeles is a show business town. People make their careers from being head-turners and looking like movie stars. This is a very valid reason for standing out from the crowd. Who doesn't want to be a success? Finally and most obvious is the difference in climates. The weather in Los Angeles is almost always sunny. New Yorkers tend to wear their interpretation of an Los Angeles look when it is appropriate--in the summer months or when they are on holiday.

Women on both coasts look great. They dress appropriately for their environment. I can remember when I first opened my Los Angeles salon, I noticed that most of my staff from New York looked like Puritans compared to the average person on the streets of Los Angeles. These transplanted New Yorkers have slowly changed their style over the years and they look wonderful. Which coast has more style? It makes sense that the look on each coast is different, but it all works.

Hair Lessons Abound on Halloween

2009-11-02T18:32:19Z

I was on my way to meet friends for dinner on Halloween night. The little kids had long since finished their trick or treating. Now, the more mature (well, at least the older) crowd--the 18 to who-knows-what-age pack--had started to ramble the streets of New York, going to sundry parties and clubs for an evening of revelry. Practically everyone was in full regalia. As I looked at all the people dressed in character on the street, I realized that most everyone had given themselves the ultimate "ambush makeover." They had probably gotten ready in under two hours and they had become their ultimate fantasies. I saw some very sexy nurses, many provocative police women, show girls, men with handcuffs (who I'm sure do not belong to any precinct) and many guys who looked like The Rock or A-Rod walking the streets. I saw a young couple walking down the street with what was obviously a pillow on the woman's belly. I wondered if they might be thinking of starting a family.

On the Today Show on Friday, I got to dress like Danny Zuko from Grease. They gave me a wig with a full head of hair. I felt like I was 18. I never wanted to take it off even if I did look a little daft. Halloween is a night when people expose a part of their personality they usually keep under wraps. In many cases this is a probably a good thing. It gives everyone a chance to live their dream. Halloween is meant to be fun. No doubt it wouldn't be the best idea for people to walk around dressed as their alter ego on a daily basis. Can you imagine what a day at the office would look like? People tend to act as they look and are dressed. I'm sure the heads of companies would be shouting the sea captain's proverbial words to the crew, "Trouble ahead," before the day was over.

There is a lesson we can learn from Halloween. How we look is often how we feel and how we perform. People who look good at work are usually held in high regard. Their performance level is almost always higher. They garner more respect. I was once told that it's a good policy to look and dress for the job you want, not the one you have. Needless to say you have to perform well at work to succeed, but your co-workers and superiors will hold you in a different regard when you look your best. Yes, beautiful people are noticed and they often find jobs and promotions more easily than others, but I do believe people who are well groomed and look put together receive the same special treatment.

What does this mean, ladies and gentlemen? It means that you do have to make an effort to look your best every day. You do have to get up earlier to spend more time on your appearance. Women's hair should always be clean and groomed. Appropriate makeup should be applied every day. Men should maintain their haircuts and shave every day. The disheveled weekend look doesn't usually look suitable for work. Walking in to your place of work looking lackadaisical is often interpreted as indifference. This is obviously not good for furthering your job potential.

At this point I can sense many of you thinking who is this fancy New York/Beverly Hills hairdresser telling me to spend money I don't have in order to look better. But that's not what I'm suggesting. The price of looking good can be reasonable and the rewards are great.

Tips on How to Find Salon Deals

Many salons, including mine, are offering lower-priced beauty packages to accommodate the downturn in our economy.
Call your local salons and check out different prices.
Don't forget to ask about junior colorists and stylists. They are already skilled at their craft or they wouldn't be technicians--their price points are often much lower.
There are also schools at many salons. Obviously the student hairdressers will not have the skill or experience of an established hairdresser or colorist, but they are usually closely monitored. Keep in mind that the students are often given assignments, so be sure you are not in a short-hair class if you want to keep your hair long.

If time and money are the major concern, use at-home hair color. It does work, and it will keep your hair color beautiful, maintain your hair's condition and look natural. My biggest tip to great looking at-home color is to keep it close to its natural hue. The closer to your natural shade, the easier it is to have great looking color.

Looking good has multiple benefits. Personally and professionally, you will receive many rewards. The most important bonus is that looking your best is the easiest way to instantly feel better about yourself.

How to Get the Best Results at the Hair Salon

2009-10-26T15:48:22Z

Our mission at the Louis Licari Salon is to keep every client happy. As we all know, making everyone happy all the time is next to impossible. Having said that, I am very proud of the percentage of people who walk out of our doors with a smile on their faces. This comes from years of practice dealing with the public and fine-tuning our customer service skills. We have been in business for nearly 25 years. In 25 years stuff has certainly happened.But with each potentially awkward situation that occurs, we learn how to become more adept at making every salon experience into a positive one.

The biggest lesson I have learned is to keep my eyes and ears open, and always to communicate with the client. The consultation is as important as all the hairdressing or coloring skills your stylist or colorist might have acquired over the years. Because it is vital that the hairdresser and the client be on the same page, a thorough consultation is perhaps the most essential ingredient to maintaining an effective stylist/client relationship. Listening to the clients and giving them feedback is the most critical part of keeping them happy.

So what should you do as a client to get the best results?

Make Sure the Hairdresser Sees You Before Your Hair is Shampooed
Hairdressers are very adept at sizing up yourpersonal style with a brief introduction and a quick glance at your overall appearance. It is key that any new haircut or hair color fit your lifestyle. A good hairdresser can visualize your lifestyle and beauty maintenance routine uponan initial meeting--which is why you should always first greet your hairdresser in your street attire before you put on a robe. A skilled professional will also be able to spot any obvious changes that need to be made within the first moments of seeing you. One of the best parts of the salon experience is thehairdresser's initial evaluation. They are looking at you with fresh eyes. They immediately see things you don't notice. Remember, the hardest person for you to look at objectively is yourself.

A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words
Contrary to popular belief, hairdressers love pictures. This is the best way to let your stylistand colorist know exactly how you want your hair to look. And, it is the easiest way for them to be able to tell you if your vision is possible. They will immediately see whether you have the right texture or color for your dream hair. Bringing a picture can avoid weeks of being disappointed with the wrong haircut.

Be Patient
Change is a luxury that often takes time. I know you may be thinking that on the Today show, I often make dramatic changes in less than two hours. It obviously can be done and can end up with beautiful results. But in a perfect world, it is better to make continuous small changes that lead to a completely different look. This gives you the time to fine-tune and adjust any changes that have been made. It leaves no room for error and guarantees great results.

Figure Out If You are At the Right Salon
There is nothing more frustrating than going to the hairdresser and not coming home happy. Sometimes you just haven't found the salon that understands your aesthetic. Look at the other clients when you walk into a salon. This will usually give you a clue of the salon's "look" or approach. I must qualify this by saying thatin my salon, there are many different stylistsand each has her or his individual style. Within most salons, however, you'll find one vision ofthe "look" of the season. I often compare salons to stores. If you want to look like Prada, you'd shop at Prada. If you prefer a more classic look, you would shop at Ralph Lauren. Usually the same is true with hair salons.

Having your hair done is a treat and should always be a fun experience that makes you feel pampered, beautiful, confident and empowered. You should always feel welcomed, like you are at your home away from home. Never accept anything less.

Before you pay a visit to your hairdresser, try on new hairstyles online using Makeover-o-Matic.

Flat is a Four-Letter Word

2009-10-13T18:27:44Z

Hair styles have been changing perpetually from the moment Eve decided to comb her hair for the very first time. The one thing that hasn't changed is every woman's desire to control the texture of her hair. Frizz, unruly waves, or bushy hair have been the bane of women's existence from the beginning of time. The usual remedy to control hair with a mind of its own used to be to make it as straight and flat to the head as possible. Women wrapped their heads, rolled their hair on beer cans, used doobie wraps and even slept in ski caps in the middle of summer to keep their hair dead straight. Bolder women would experiment with mixtures including straight lye to keep their hair poker straight. Most of these remedies worked, at least temporarily. Initially, the women would be thrilled with the results. Then almost universally, the awareness kicked in that pin-straight hair looks best on pretty prepubescent school girls. Anyone past the age of 12 needs volume and fullness to make her hair and face look its absolute best.

Hair-straightening technology has changed rapidly over the years. Now often called "relaxers," the newer products are made of gentler chemicals that tend to wear away slowly, rather than abruptly growing out. One of the most difficult styling problems is to have curly re-growth at the scalp and dead-straight hair at the tips. Even with the best stylist doing your hair and using state-of-the-art equipment, the old-school relaxer was awkward to style unless it was constantly maintained.

Finally, after years of harsh chemical straighteners that often caused hair breakage and even burns to the scalp, the Keratin treatment was developed. This is a treatment that relaxes the hair and conditions it at the same time. It softens your natural curl or wave. A blow dry that previously took an hour now takes 10 minutes. The driest, frizziest hair appears to be in perfect condition, with bounce and body. I cannot tell you how many woman come up to me daily at the salon to say that the Keratin treatment has totally changed their lives.

The biggest realization in the world of hair straightening, done either chemically or with a blow dryer and a brush, is that hair must have body and fullness to be its most flattering. Hair worn flat is too harsh for all but the most beautiful. Even hair worn straight should look full and thick.

To achieve this controlled but full look, you must have the proper haircut. This usually involves the amount of layers needed for your particular hair texture. Most hair would require a few long layers, while thicker hair should be worn almost blunt.

You must also be skilled with your blow dryer. Using a large round brush can control curl and maintain its fullness. The secret is to hold the hair directly away from the base of the scalp while applying heat. Paddle brushes and even straightening irons can achieve the same effect when used properly. Do not force hair down and flat. Use the paddle brush or straightening iron to change the direction of your hair growth to add fullness.

Products are essential to create the illusion of full but controlled hair. Mousses, thickening creams, sprays and gels will add to the look of fullness. Pomades and smoothing gels will turn the most unmanageable hair into a beautiful mane.

Flat hair is not flattering. Women with the finest hair and simplest haircuts should do their best to pump up the volume and create the look of more hair. Remember beauty is an illusion. It just takes a little time, imagination and creativity.

The Obama Generation

2009-10-05T20:31:12Z

Barack Obama made history when he became the first interracial president of the United States. Whether or not you agree with his beliefs and doctrines, the fact that he was elected president is a strong indicator of the future direction of the population of our country. The number of interracial children born every day is increasing. One outcome of this is the most outstanding looks, body shapes and skin colors that we have ever seen. My own godchildren are biracial and two of the most beautiful kids on the planet.

Caring for the hair of interracial children can be overwhelming to their parents. They often deal with hair textures they're not familiar with, and have had no experience grooming. The good news is that the learning curve is quick and the path to great looking and painless hairstyles for children with textured hair is easy to follow.

Things to remember when taking care of hair with texture:

* Mixed ethnic hair is extremely fragile. A gentle touch is essential to avoid pain, breakage and even hair loss. Always use a wide-tooth comb and a quality natural bristle brush to comb the hair.

* Curly hair is dry hair. It needs moisture. Look for products made especially for curly hair at your local drug store, beauty supply shop or hair salon. Remember that what works for your hair is most likely not appropriate for your child's hair. Curly hair is dry. Coarse curly hair is extremely dry. They will need different products to keep their hair healthy and well maintained.

* Use a hydrating shampoo and moisturizing conditioner. Do not shampoo frequently. Too much shampooing will dry out the scalp and the hair.

* Use a daily leave-in conditioner or lotion. If the hair has a fine texture, use very little; courser hair will require more product. Using product makes hair easier to comb and brush.
Covered elastics are the best way to secure pony tails. They won't pull the hair and will provide a gentle way to give the hair style.

* Find a hairdresser who is not only a good cutter but also comfortable with children. This can be a intimidating experience to some kids. The right hairdresser, someone who connects with the child, can make the salon experience a great one.

We are at the beginning of a new age. The multi-cultural generation is the future. There has never been a brighter, stronger or more vibrant group of kids. Looking good will never be their problem.

When the Beauty Editors Call

2009-10-02T20:25:39Z

Every year at exactly this time, the beauty hot line at the salon starts to ring. Almost every beauty editor from New York to London to Paris calls and asks the same question: "What's new with hair color, Louis?" The query used to send chills up my spine. The fact of the matter is that until very recently,although hair color did evolve, the changeswould happen gradually. I would often find myself scrambling to expound on the most minute color shifts from season to season.

Of course, there was always the trend setter, the woman bold enough to try the most non-traditional hair colors. Debbie Harry's famous blond hair was bleached only in the front and left dark in the back.

Debbie and I became friends over the years and I eventually started to color her hair. I had to ask her why she only colored the front. She responded simply, "How was I supposed to see the back of my head?" It made perfect sense to me and I continued to follow what became her most famous trademark. Madonna fearlessly bleached her hair to a platinum blond that often ended up in short boyish styles because of breakage from color abuse.

I will never forget the scene from her movie Truth or Dare in which, after a concert, with her hair covered in gobs of conditionerand covered by a plastic bag, she sippedsoup for dinner. I am sure she prayed day and night that her hair would last for the rest of the tour.

Even more daring was Cyndi Lauper, who bleached her hair so blond it looked like feathers. Then she would add insult to injury and add a stripe or two of another random color to her already delicate follicles. Her hair never seemed to grow longer than chinlength. I wonder why?

Not all color trends were as extreme or as destructive to the hair. Remember Cindy Crawford's blond stripes around her face? Every girl in America bought a bottle of Joleen bleach to try and imitate her. This was an easy look to achieve at home and became the "it" color for more than a few seasons. It often looked pretty, unless girls got carried away and fried their hair. Unfortunately, thelook could lead to stripes of color all over the head. In most cases, women who tried thislooked terrible, like they had botched their home color jobs or worse. But go figure, this color became a huge trend.

Linda Evangelista was the woman who made hair color change acceptable for every woman. Linda was the top supermodel of her time. Before Linda, a top model would neverhave been bold enough to radically change her color. Linda astonished the fashion world by showing up at the collections with her beautiful brunette hair made white blond. This made more news than any designer collection shown that season. Soon other girls followed. It was no longer unusual for amodel to change her look from season to season.

Linda still topped them all by accepting a Clairol color campaign and changing her hair from brown to blond to red in three days. I was lucky enough to be picked as the colorist for the job. I was sweating bullets the entire three days. Each color had to be beyond perfect. Meanwhile, Linda was totally at ease. She looked great and loved wearing every color. I remember her bringing in color-coordinated outfits with jewels and sunglasses for each hair color change. Linda Evangelista is perhaps the woman most responsible for turning hair color into fashion's most important accessory.

Except for the rare exception, things have calmed down over the years. Warmer caramel colors have taken over as the must-have hair tones. Oddly enough, these colors would have been considered brassy and unacceptable just a few years ago. Almost every client still brings in pictures of Jennifer Anniston or Gisele Bundchen. Gold, amber and coppery auburns are in. Ash colors look dull and drab by comparison.

Brunettes who at one time were almost considered second-class citizens now frequently sport the color of choice. Making an obviously brunette woman blond often discolors their complexion and is perhaps the biggest beauty faux pas. Keeping close to your color palette is essential unless you are willing to make a daily makeup change daily. This is a major error.

Hair color change is happening faster than ever. Recently, I made top model Coco Rocha red for Vogue and then almost ebony brown on the whim of the great photographer Steven Meisel for another shoot a few weeks later.

Color change is no longer stagnant. The next time a beauty editor calls, I'll have no worries about being short on news. Pick a color, any color, I'll have plenty to say!

From Fashion Week to Frugal Fabulousness

2009-09-23T18:23:19Z

Fashion Week has ended in New York. I scrambled around from show to show, read every review and watched every moment of the TV coverage. I wanted to see everything.

The clothes, the incredibly chic models and the celebrities that line the front rows of the shows make this one of New York's most glamorous weeks. For the first few days it all feels like one big decadent party. But as the week progresses, the seriousness of the shows becomes increasingly obvious. As mind boggling as it seems, the fashion and beauty trends for spring 2010 are being determined right now, more than a year in advance.

I know many of you are thinking that the fashion shows are irrelevant to your everyday life. You could not be more wrong. Perhaps you won't be buying the pricey designer numbers featured on the runways or wearing the perfect coifs and makeup of the models, but they will influence your visits to neighborhood shopping malls, beauty salons and drugstores. The shapes and colors of the clothes, hair and makeup for spring have all been determined by this week's shows.

Certainly there are differences in the quality of the goods, but on close observation, the look of fashion's and beauty's most expensive items are very similar to their more reasonably priced counterparts. You really don't have to spend a fortune to look your fashionable best.

Sometimes the designer clothes shown are outlandish. More than a few items will never be seen off the runway except on the most daring. There was one overwhelming trend this season, however: a return to femininity. Most women today don't have the funds to be frivolous with their clothing or beauty budget. At this point in time, looking feminine, beautiful and stylish makes sense for all women maintaining or pursuing a career--or for those just wanting to look incredibly chic. This doesn't have to cost a fortune, but it does take time and effort. Woman who don't take care of their appearance look like they don't care about themselves or their lives. I know this isn't always the case, but this is how it is often viewed by others. It is well worth the time it takes to look your best. Here are some easy tips suitable for every occasion.

1. Get up a half-hour earlier than usual. This will give you more time to get ready to face the day. Have your beauty potions out from the night before. Clean your face thoroughly and apply appropriate products to keep your skin looking bright and vibrant.

2. Make sure your hair is shampooed, conditioned and styled. Never walk out of your house with dirty or tangled hair. Nothing says "I don't care about my appearance, my self or my job" more than hair that is not well groomed.

3. Always put on makeup. At the very least, lipstick and mascara are a must to look alive.

4. Tweeze your brows or whatever else needs to be shaped or eliminated.

5. Check for roots if you color you hair. Dark hairs peeking through are more acceptable than grey roots. Grey coverage must be maintained because grey roots can create the illusion of thinning hair.

It's not easy to look good all the time. In fact, it's almost impossible. Looking good takes time and effort. I often think of one of my client's grandmothers who, upon bringing in her granddaughter for her first set of highlights, told her, "It's not easy to be a great beauty." Except for the lucky few, no truer words have been spoken.

Beauty in the New Economy

2009-09-14T13:31:15Z

Today's financial headlines are often bleak. Words like "recession" and "inflation" appear in nearly every article and reading them send chills up my spine. The most recent stories suggest that the economy has started to recover, and I sigh with relief reading that the worst was behind us. Anyone who talks the truth will have to admit they have been affected by this recession. As our 401k savings have gone down, we all have become hyper aware of our spending habits.

Whether consciously or not, we have all made lists of what we can cut from our budgets. Certainly, taking care of your hair can be an expensive proposition. Does this mean you should forsake your beauty and grooming routines? I think not! Maintaining your confidence and self-esteem has never been more important. It's a tough and competitive world out there. If you don't think looking good makes a difference in getting a job or the promotion of your dreams, you're making a big mistake. Contrary to what the old adage says, we often do judge a book by its cover. Your appearance can say as much about you as your resume. So, it is vital always to look your best.

I am not suggesting you spend your last dollar on a blow-out or a touch-up. There are many inexpensive and relatively easy ways to maintain your beauty routine.

Haircuts
A great haircut is a good investment. A good shape makes it easier for you to style your hair between trims. Remember that keeping your bangs trim will keep your haircut looking fresh for a very long time. Most hairdressers will be happy to cut their clients' bangs for no charge. If that's not the case, you can cut your own bangs or slither off the occasional split end to prolong your haircut. When cutting bangs, always follow the line your presently have. Do not try to make bangs thicker or wider; this takes a skilled professional. Cut your bangs long. They will pop up shorter than you expect after you've cut them. Trimming split ends is easy. Take a half-inch section of hair and twist it to its end. You will notice the split ends sticking out of the twist. Trim the damaged ends and move on to the next section.

Styling
This takes patience and the proper tools. Your hair texture and desired look will help determine the tools you need to style your hair. Closely watch your stylist blow dry your hair. Notice the products and styling tools used. Ask your stylist to show you how to blow dry your own hair. The stylist will be happy to show you the proper angles to hold your brush and hair dryer. If you are really having trouble styling your hair, request a formal class. There will be a charge for the class, but it will more than pay for itself in a very short time.

Coloring
You can do this at home, and doing it can lead to great savings. I know that the thought of at-home color can make many of us shudder. Home-coloring products have received a bad rap for years. Guess what? They work! The coloring products are terrific. It is most often the at-home colorist who is the culprit of any bad results. You must read the product guidelines and the directions to guarantee beautiful results. If you're a salon color client, you can extend the time between touch-ups by coloring the hair around your face and where your hair parts. This will add another two to three weeks to your touch-up schedule. There are many at-home hairline touch-up kits that are easy to use and will color your hair in only 10 minutes.

Conditioning
This is essential to keep hair looking healthy and vibrant. Conditioning your hair is easy to do at home. I suggest using store-bought conditioners. At-home remedies do not rinse out of the hair, and often leave it looking coated and limp. If you have fine hair, use a light conditioner; thick hair will require a heavier conditioner. Hair that is in peak condition always looks great. Hair color will look better and last longer when your hair is in good condition. Natural curls and waves will never look frizzy on healthy, moisturized hair.

I can't stress enough the importance of looking your best in today's world. Self confidence is a crucial commodity, one we all need. I guarantee that you will feel better about yourself when you make the effort to take these steps. They don't cost much, and they will keep your hair looking beautiful.

Not sure if you need to change up your look? Check out these 9 signts that you need a new hairdo!

Eyes Wide Open: A Recap of Fashion's Night Out

2009-09-11T20:39:54Z

I'm sitting on the plane waiting to take off for Los Angeles. There's a 25-plane traffic jam and a one hour delay on the runway at JFK. My mind wandered to last night. It was one of the most exciting evenings I have ever experienced in New York. Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue magazine, sponsored "Fashion's Night Out". The event was a huge shopping party that covered the streets of New York from Fifth Avenue to Madison Avenue to the West Village and SoHo. It was a giant stimulus package to encourage people back to the store to shop. It would be an understatement to say the evening was a success. The streets were teeming with people all holding shopping bags. The night felt like a huge block party for fashionistas. The shoppers were dressed in various looks from cute to glamorous to edgy. There was a "Fashion's Night Out" T-shirt that sold like hot cakes throughout the city. Most people used the tees to obtain autographs from their favorite designers and celebrities that were stationed at various stores. Profits from the T-shirt went to benefit the National September 11 Memorial Museum and the New York City Aids Fund. This was New York at its best.

My New York salon is located smack in the middle of the festivities. Saks Fifth Avenue is to the left. Bergdorf's and Dior are to the right with Prada across the street. Walking out the front door of the building I could not help but smile. I could have just stood there and stared at the crowds all night. I literally didn't know where or who to look at first. My head was almost spinning in circles not to miss one new trend in dress, hair, or make-up. I started my stroll up the Avenue. My first stop was Prada to pay homage to Grace Coddington, the Creative Director of vogue was the star attraction. Grace was recently featured in the movie "September Issue". At the end of the movie Anna Wintour declares Grace a genius. This is an understatement. Grace probably has the best eye in the business. I have had the privilege to work with Grace from time to time. Grace's pictures and my conversations with her have been one of my biggest inspirations. She has often told me to always keep my eyes wide open. She said that when she is in a car she always is looking at everything that passes by. "You never know what your next source of inspiration will be Louis." I will never forget this piece of advice.

My next stop was Bergdorf's. Phyllis Posnick the Executive Fashion Editor of Vogue was autographing her book "Extreme Beauty". Phyllis often works with Irving Penn creating some of the most beautiful and unique beauty pictures I have ever seen. Her vision and insight is above reproach. The source of her inspiration is her research, her vision, and her constant ability to observe the world around her. Bergdorf's was a zoo. There was a line around the block to get through the store's doors. The Olsen twins, barely visible because of there small size, were tending bar. The store looked a bit like a night club where people could shop.

I went to a few more stores. Charlize Theron was at Dior. Looking at this woman is the ultimate lesson in glamour. She wore an elegant Dior gown. Her movements were graceful. Her movie star aura filled the room.

My last stop was Oscar De La Renta. Sara Jessica Parker, Bette Midler, and Barbara Walters were the stars of the night. They sang "There's no business like clothes business". The mood was festive. Watching each of these dynamic women reminded me that people with real style wear clothes, hair, and make-up that are right for them. Truly stylish people don't always follow trends.

I went to dinner with friends at the end of the evening. At dinner we were all talking about what inspired us to be constantly evolving and moving forward. I had to admit it was my friends and the people I have worked with over the years. I was lucky enough to be neighbors with Marc Jacobs, the fashion designer, when he lived in New York before he moved to Paris. We often went shopping, combed the thrift stores, and endlessly walked the streets of New York. There wasn't a new exhibition at any museum that we missed. It would not be unusual for him to make a 180 degree turn to look at a fashion trend setter or an eccentric character of the streets. He found inspiration in everything around him. He often insisted we meet for dinner. I don't think he cared as much about dinner as the food for thought he might gather going to and from the restaurants. We walked everywhere. We took subways. He never missed a beat.

Over the years I have been programmed to keep my eyes wide open. I know that being a good colorist means that you never stop evolving. A colorist must constantly be developing his color eye. I often tell my friends that you don't have to be a genius to have a good color eye. You only have to watch the world around you.

Fall Hair Color Trends

2009-09-09T15:08:40Z

Some people change their hair color as quickly as the wind blows. Making frequent dramatic color changes is fun, but it's not really the best idea. Constant color change can take a big toll on the condition of your hair. Making continual small changes from season to season is the sure fire way to make certain your hair color is always your most flattering shade. It's also the best way to keep your hair healthy and shiny.

Fall is a few weeks away, and it's time to rethink your look. Most likely, you're already checking out the new fall fashions, looking for a new shade of lipstick and blush, even picking a new nail polish color for your toes and fingertips.

You will soon be out of the summer sun. Your complexion will become a bit paler. Your hair color can start to look faded and brassy instead of sun-kissed. This the perfect time to re-evaluate your hair color and make the necessary changes.

No matter what the shade, hair color will look incredibly warm and natural this fall. The natural nuances of the hair will be accented with translucent chocolate, auburn, amber and golden colors and glazes. Opaque colors that make hair look monochromatic, drab or ash should always be avoided. Obvious streaks of color are out. Randomly placed soft color to add dimension, depth and texture are in.

Brunettes
You should stay a brunette. This doesn't mean you can't go lighter or brighter. It does mean you should avoid blond shades. (The one exception to this rule is if your brown hair has gone grey.) This usually means your complexion has also become paler, giving you more leeway to explore dark blond shades. The best examples of brunettes for fall 2009 are Anne Hathaway, Sandra Bullock, Katie Holmes and Demi Moore.

Blondes
You should either look like you were incredibly lucky and were born with your hair color like Kate Hudson, or fake, fabulous and glamorous like Madonna. Whether you are trying to look natural or glamorous, you should always have depth at the roots. This is an insider's secret: Depth at the roots helps to guarantee your new blond hair is always flattering to your skin tone.

Redheads
You can be as light as a strawberry blonde or the darkest shade of auburn. Redheads should always have golden or copper undertones. Picture Lindsey Lohan, now that she has returned to her God-given red hair. Avoid all violets or blue-reds. This is a color for cars, not hair. My favorite redheads for fall 2009 are Isla Fisher, Amy Adams and (my perpetual favorite) Susan Sarandon.

Constant small hair color changes are the key to looking your best. Fall is the time of new beginnings. People are back from vacation, kids are back at school and life is back at full speed. This is the perfect time to reinvent yourself. Remember: Small changes are all you need to make a big difference in the way you look!

For more hair help, check out iVillage's Hair Survival Guide!

Ambush Makeover Takes Fifth Avenue

2009-08-25T11:00:00Z

The Today show let me loose on Fifth Avenue the other day. I was a man on a mission: I had to rescue women who were in the mist of a hair 911. Manned with a microphone, I stood in front of our building with a small crew from NBC. The idea was for me to go up to women who, I thought, would benefit from a change of cut, color or style. My knees practically knocked together as I approached total strangers to suggest they revamp their hair. Some women looked at me like I was a raging lunatic but the other women, who didn't run, loved talking to me about their hair. Let me tell you the hair tales of three of the woman who did talk to me.

Visit msnbc.com for Breaking News, World News, and News about the Economy

Helen was walking up Fifth Avenue with her hair tightly tied back. I could tell by the bulk of her bun that she must have extremely thick hair. I suspected that Helen wore her hair up every day. I knew instinctively she had so much hair that it probably overwhelmed her face. I had to talk to her.

At first Helen was a bit reluctant about a change. She said, "When?" I said, "Now!" As she started a very unconvincing dialogue about not having the time at this particular moment, I could tell she really wanted help with her hair. I asked her once more. This time she said, "Yes!" and we ran into the salon.

Helen let her hair loose and I saw that I was right. It was too long, too thick and unmanageable. I introduced Helen to Dana, who is one of the salon's best stylists. Dana cut 12 inches off Helen's hair, still leaving it long enough to hang below her shoulders. She gave Helen long layers to control the excessive bulk of her hair. Helen can now wear her hair down or up, wavy or straight. She is a liberated woman.

]]>
Even with her hair pulled up in a jaw clip, it was easy to spot Patsy as a very attractive woman. Her hair color was just too light. I talked to her about going darker. She was extremely reluctant. She loved being a blonde. I explained that her highlighted hair lacked contrast and looked like a single-process hair color without depth or dimension. Patsy knew I was right and allowed me to add very subtle dark blond streaks throughout her hair. The dark blond streaks keep her hair light but make it look a bit more natural. This will allow her new color to blend with her natural color, providing for a more graceful grow out.

When I saw Dinna walking up the street I only noticed her mass of thick dark hair. Dinna's hair was gorgeous but it overwhelmed her. It was so dark and monochromatic that it almost looked like it was tinted black. I cautiously approached her. I didn't want to come on too strong and frighten her. She was apprehensive but agreed that it was time for a change. I'd found my third hair 911.

I had Dana cut Dinna's hair before I started the color. I knew that the cut would be significant. Dana cut Dinna's hair to her shoulders and then layered her hair throughout. Dinna's hair immediately looked better but it still looked too heavy and lacked movement.

Haircuts and hair color should always work together. I knew that hair color was what was needed to show off Dinna's new haircut. I lightened her hair to a softer brown and added light, golden brown highlights. This immediately accentuated Dinna's new layers. You could see the movement in her hair. Dinna's new cut and color allows you to see the pretty woman she is.

I was way out of my comfort zone canvassing the streets of New York for woman with hair 911s. I will definitely take a brush-up course in the art of the approach before I hit the streets again. In the meantime I'll do what I do best: I'll stand behind my chair coloring hair, solving one hair 911 at a time.

The Power of Hair Color

2009-08-17T19:14:47Z

Not for nothing, but after doing "Ambush Makeover" for more than a couple of years I have only gained more respect for hair color. I am constantly overwhelmed by the power and importance of hair color. I think that hair color is the quickest way to dramatically change your looks. You can look younger, prettier, sexier, completely natural, or incredibly chic and stylized. The true miracle of hair color is that in most cases it takes less than an hour to complete the process. On the Today show's Ambush Makeover I color hair in less than half that time. Hair color truly is the quick fix that works. I am fully aware of that hair color is only one part of "Ambush". I truly believe it is the most significant change that sets the tone for the makeover's cut and style, make-up, and clothes. I know this statement might ruffle a few feathers in the fashion and beauty community, and maybe even with the other members of the "Ambush" team. I am not trying to emphasis my importance or underplay the significance of a great haircut, perfect make-up, and a great looking outfit. I am solely talking about the power of hair color.

I have made many dramatic color changes on young girls over the years. Many times the change was for young actors playing a movie role or an attempt for a real girl to look like her favorite "it" girl of the moment. I think hair color on young girls is fine but I do suggest subtle changes. I always think of hair color as make-up. You and your hair color are most likely beautiful as a teen. Very little needs to be done, you are perfect already. But if you want to have fun and color your hair I only have one comment. Color it! A touch of hair color is no different than trying on a lipstick. It's a fun way to try a different look. It always grows. Now is the perfect time to experiment. By the way, you can also get away with color choices that probably won't work when you are a bit older.

]]>
Hair really starts to change around the age of 35. The few grey hairs you had are now noticeable streaks of grey. Even if you are incredibly lucky and grey is not an issue, your hair no longer has its original luster. The tones that made your hair rich and vibrant are now fading. The texture is often different as the years pass. Curly hair can become straight, silky hair can become frizzy. Many women will start to notice a general thinning of the hair. At this point hair color becomes a necessity. Hair color will prevent your color from looking dull, keep your complexion vibrant by providing contrast with your skin color, plump up the volume of your hair by coating it, and completely cover those annoying greys.

I obviously believe in hair color. There is no other process than can be as easily maintained, at home or at the salon, to keep you looking your best. I stand behind that fact with stronger convictions every year I stand behind my color chair. I never try to persuade anyone to color their hair. I only tell them what hair color can do for them. The choice is yours. Happy coloring!

5 Steps To Take Your Hair From Summer To Fall

2009-08-11T17:36:05Z

August is a rough month for hair. Even the people most careful with their hair often find that the summer's sun and elements has wreaked its havoc. Almost all hair is lighter than it should be, a bit drier, and definitely more brittle. Sometimes it tangles more, is more difficult to comb or brush out, and tends to dry frizzy or fly away. It's quite obvious that your hair is in an altered state, but many women enjoy the look of their end of summer hair. I find that many women will overuse self tanners, wear more makeup, or do whatever it takes to wear their summer hair color and style as long as possible. I always have the sinking feeling at this time of year that women are avoiding me because they don't want me to tell them to trim or tone down their hair. This never fails to amuse me. I always think of hair as a fashion and beauty accessory that you should always have fun with and enjoy. Your hair grows every day. It is ever changing. Your hair cut and color are for right now, not forever.

Now that we are approaching the beginning of September, it is time to rethink your hair. What looked golden, vibrant and sun kissed midsummer can look brassy, dried out and brittle by Labor Day. There are some simple steps you can take to make the summer/fall hair transition as graceful as possible.

STEP 1: I know most women want their hair long, especially in the summer, but it is probably time to get a trim. The ends of your hair are the most porous. Exposure to the sun and elements makes them dry and brittle. This makes a hair cut essential to restoring the condition of your hair.

STEP 2: Reduce the amount of coloring on your re-growth. The bright color you loved this summer probably will start to give you a washed out look by Labor Day. When you do color your hair you should make it a bit darker. If this is more than you can bear, at least touch up the root with a more subtle color. The color of the rest of your hair will look more appropriate once you have depth at the base or roots of your hair.

]]> STEP 3: Take care of your scalp. This is the perfect time of year to give yourself a revitalizing scalp treatment. It will help to rid you of any flakes on your scalp from sunburn. The massage with the treatment will increase circulation, making for healthier roots. The massaging of your head will encourage hair growth.

STEP 4: Now that you gave yourself a scalp treatment it's time to condition the rest of your head. There are many deep treatments available today. One of my salon favorites is the thermal deep conditioning treatment. This conditioner is actually pressed into the hair with heat. It adds protein and moisture. These treatments won't totally rid your hair of damage, but they do make a significant difference. The best piece of advice I can give you is to remember all conditioners are temporary. Conditioning your hair should be maintained after every shampoo. If you have course hair, use a heavy conditioner. If your hair has fine texture, use a light one and concentrate on the ends of your hair.

STEP 5: Put the shine back in your hair. When you are at the salon for your haircut or color always ask for a hair gloss. This is a clear finish that acts like a varnish for your hair. This will instantly give your hair a healthy vibrant glow.

Fall is almost here. It's up to you to keep your hair looking good all year long. This does take some time, effort, and common sense. Always be ready to make small changes and constantly fine tune your hair. It's all worth it when you start the day looking in the mirror loving your hair and feeling good.

Plaza Ambush Makeovers

2009-08-07T16:45:13Z

Two lucky ladies were picked from the Plaza to get Plaza Ambush Makeovers from TODAY's beauty response team of Louis Licari and Jill Martin.

Watch the segment from TODAY

Visit msnbc.com for Breaking News, World News, and News about the Economy

What do you think of the ladies' new looks? Leave a comment or question below!

Related Content:

Missed an Ambush? Catch up here
Try on new hairstyles from Louis Licari with Makeover-o-Matic