Hair styles have been changing perpetually from the moment Eve decided to comb her hair for the very first time. The one thing that hasn't changed is every woman's desire to control the texture of her hair. Frizz, unruly waves, or bushy hair have been the bane of women's existence from the beginning of time. The usual remedy to control hair with a mind of its own used to be to make it as straight and flat to the head as possible. Women wrapped their heads, rolled their hair on beer cans, used doobie wraps and even slept in ski caps in the middle of summer to keep their hair dead straight. Bolder women would experiment with mixtures including straight lye to keep their hair poker straight. Most of these remedies worked, at least temporarily. Initially, the women would be thrilled with the results. Then almost universally, the awareness kicked in that pin-straight hair looks best on pretty prepubescent school girls. Anyone past the age of 12 needs volume and fullness to make her hair and face look its absolute best.

Hair-straightening technology has changed rapidly over the years. Now often called "relaxers," the newer products are made of gentler chemicals that tend to wear away slowly, rather than abruptly growing out. One of the most difficult styling problems is to have curly re-growth at the scalp and dead-straight hair at the tips. Even with the best stylist doing your hair and using state-of-the-art equipment, the old-school relaxer was awkward to style unless it was constantly maintained.

Finally, after years of harsh chemical straighteners that often caused hair breakage and even burns to the scalp, the Keratin treatment was developed. This is a treatment that relaxes the hair and conditions it at the same time. It softens your natural curl or wave. A blow dry that previously took an hour now takes 10 minutes. The driest, frizziest hair appears to be in perfect condition, with bounce and body. I cannot tell you how many woman come up to me daily at the salon to say that the Keratin treatment has totally changed their lives.

The biggest realization in the world of hair straightening, done either chemically or with a blow dryer and a brush, is that hair must have body and fullness to be its most flattering. Hair worn flat is too harsh for all but the most beautiful. Even hair worn straight should look full and thick.

To achieve this controlled but full look, you must have the proper haircut. This usually involves the amount of layers needed for your particular hair texture. Most hair would require a few long layers, while thicker hair should be worn almost blunt.

You must also be skilled with your blow dryer. Using a large round brush can control curl and maintain its fullness. The secret is to hold the hair directly away from the base of the scalp while applying heat. Paddle brushes and even straightening irons can achieve the same effect when used properly. Do not force hair down and flat. Use the paddle brush or straightening iron to change the direction of your hair growth to add fullness.

Products are essential to create the illusion of full but controlled hair. Mousses, thickening creams, sprays and gels will add to the look of fullness. Pomades and smoothing gels will turn the most unmanageable hair into a beautiful mane.

Flat hair is not flattering. Women with the finest hair and simplest haircuts should do their best to pump up the volume and create the look of more hair. Remember beauty is an illusion. It just takes a little time, imagination and creativity.

Barack Obama made history when he became the first interracial president of the United States. Whether or not you agree with his beliefs and doctrines, the fact that he was elected president is a strong indicator of the future direction of the population of our country. The number of interracial children born every day is increasing. One outcome of this is the most outstanding looks, body shapes and skin colors that we have ever seen. My own godchildren are biracial and two of the most beautiful kids on the planet.

Caring for the hair of interracial children can be overwhelming to their parents. They often deal with hair textures they're not familiar with, and have had no experience grooming. The good news is that the learning curve is quick and the path to great looking and painless hairstyles for children with textured hair is easy to follow.

Things to remember when taking care of hair with texture:

* Mixed ethnic hair is extremely fragile. A gentle touch is essential to avoid pain, breakage and even hair loss. Always use a wide-tooth comb and a quality natural bristle brush to comb the hair.

* Curly hair is dry hair. It needs moisture. Look for products made especially for curly hair at your local drug store, beauty supply shop or hair salon. Remember that what works for your hair is most likely not appropriate for your child's hair. Curly hair is dry. Coarse curly hair is extremely dry. They will need different products to keep their hair healthy and well maintained.

* Use a hydrating shampoo and moisturizing conditioner. Do not shampoo frequently. Too much shampooing will dry out the scalp and the hair.

* Use a daily leave-in conditioner or lotion. If the hair has a fine texture, use very little; courser hair will require more product. Using product makes hair easier to comb and brush.
Covered elastics are the best way to secure pony tails. They won't pull the hair and will provide a gentle way to give the hair style.

* Find a hairdresser who is not only a good cutter but also comfortable with children. This can be a intimidating experience to some kids. The right hairdresser, someone who connects with the child, can make the salon experience a great one.

We are at the beginning of a new age. The multi-cultural generation is the future. There has never been a brighter, stronger or more vibrant group of kids. Looking good will never be their problem.

Recently my assistant Lottie told me that she noticed a few questions and comments had been sent to the salon's email address in addition to the usual blog postings. I asked her to bring them in so I could read them. She asked me where to put the emails. Naively, I said "Lottie, leave them on my desk." I should have sensed something was up when Lottie said, "Are you sure?" I impatiently said "yes" as I went to greet my next client.

When I had I finished my clients for the day, long forgetting about the emails, I went downstairs to my office. As I stood in the doorway, I looked at my desk in shock. It was barely visible. Stacks of emails where piled high. I didn't know whether to laugh or cry. I decided to just start reading your questions one at a time.


I love when you make over women of color. It is so exciting to see all the options that are available to ethnic women like me. I always wanted to highlight my hair. I ran to the drugstore and bought a highlighting kit after I saw you lighten the hair of a woman whose hair texture was similar to mine. What a disaster! The highlights came out too light and most of the highlighted hairs broke off within two weeks. What did I do wrong? -Janelle

African American hair is much more delicate than Caucasian or Asian hair. It reacts to color in five to fifteen minutes and even faster if the hair has been permed or relaxed. Timing is key. To prevent breakage, it is important to use only the gentlest and most buffered products. Bleach should never be used to lighten hair. All coloring should be done with tints and low-volume developers.



II just graduated from college and my hair is long, straight and bleached blond. I have long roots and my hair is fried. It looked great at school but now that I'm looking for a job, it just doesn't look right. My natural color is dirty blond. I would like a more natural look. How do I make my white blond hair believable? -Mary

First things first, Mary. Now is the time to try a new hair cut. Cut off as much as you can bear. This will eliminate some of the bleached blond color and your fried hair. The next step is to start to add highlights on your roots. After the first touch-up, your hair might still look a little darker at the roots. Not to worry! A few touch-ups later you will look like a natural blond who has spent time at the beach.

 

II love your redhead makeovers. My natural color is medium brown. I have olive skin and brown eyes. I always wanted to be a redhead. Would red hair be a good choice for me? -Jen


Yes Jen, you can be a redhead. You must pick a red shade that is right for your complexion. Women with olive skin should pick darker reds or auburn shades. A lighter red will make your complexion appear sallow.


Need some Hairapy?  Send in your photos and questions to contact@louislicari.com. I will post them periodically with my beauty suggestions. This should be a great learning experience for all of us. You can have your questions answered and I will gain insights into your beauty needs. All pictures sent in become the property of iVillage and Louis Licari.

I was reading a comment posted on last week's blog, "No More Drama," and the proverbial light bulb went on. The post read, "Hi Louis. I am going to cut my hair this week. I have been growing it out for years but it's damaged and I need a change. I have thin, fine hair and I think I need bangs because I have a high, wide forehead. I would really love it if I could send you a picture and get your advice on a haircut. I have never been to New York and don't know any other way I'd get your advice. I think if anyone could steer me in the right direction, it would be you. Please help! -Michelle."

I love this idea. What better way would there be for me to answer your questions than to look at your pictures? So here's the deal. Send in your photos and questions to contact@louislicari.com. I will post them periodically with my beauty suggestions. This should be a great learning experience for all of us. You can have your questions answered and I will gain insights into your beauty needs. All pictures sent in become the property of iVillage and Louis Licari.

In the meantime, check out the latest Hairapy Q&A:

I have naturally dark brown hair, but I recently went blond, a golden yellow color. I don't think the color looks good because I have light skin and dark eyes. I am not sure what color to go. I was thinking of platinum blond. Should I go back to my dark hue?  -Mela


Sounds like your newly acquired blond hair is washing out your complexion. Remember your hair color should always provide contrast to your skin color. I would suggest that you start to make your hair slightly darker at the roots. You will immediately notice your skin color looking more alive. This will also add depth and dimension to your hair.



I have curly/wavy hair but I fight it and flat iron it. I would like to accept it. I have read that I need to use shampoos that do not lather on my hair. Can you give me names of products that I need to use that will help me? Thank you!  -Lisa


You probably have the perfect product in your shower right now. It's your conditioner! Using your conditioner as a shampoo will keep your curls calm and avoid unnecessary dryness. Use a heavily conditioning shampoo only when absolutely necessary.

The other day I found my self looking up the archives of my blog "Hair and There" to look at some of the subject matter I have discussed. Much to my surprise, I realized I have been blogging for two years. To my bigger surprise, I realized that many of you have sent in questions, most of them still unanswered. The comment "Should we put Louis's picture on a milk bottle?" said it all. I was delinquent and for this I apologize. I must admit that once I post each entry I check to see that it is posted, look at the art work chosen to illustrate it and read it again to be sure it's coherent.

I am still a bit insecure about my writing. You must understand I came to New York after finishing my degree in art from Syracuse University. After a few struggling years as a painter, I stumbled into my career as a hair colorist. I never went to journalism school. No one is more amazed than I am that I have the opportunity to write this blog!

Unfortunately, I do not have the time to answer every question that has been posted. In the future, I will dedicate a bi-monthly blog to answer your inquiries. Please send in any questions you have about haircuts, color, condition, trends or anything else you need to know. I'll be happy to answer your questions.


"I have dark hair, basically black, and I really want to put light brown and red highlights in my hair. I want to do this using store-bought dye, but I've never done this before. Am I just supposed to follow the instructions on the box or will the colors not come out right because my hair is too dark?"  -Ann Marie


There are highlighting kits available for dark-haired women. They are clearly labeled as highlights for brunettes. If you are ever in doubt about your shade choice, look on the box for a color chart. It will clearly state "not recommended" if it is not the right product for your shade of hair. Natural black hair can be highlighted successfully if you choose highlights in the brown family. I would avoid red highlights on dark or black hair. They can easily turn orange and brassy.



"My hair was auburn. I have been coloring my hair a dark, warm blond for years. I have liked it even though I have olive skin and brown eyes. I have always used light ash blond to achieve my color. My husband wanted me to go lighter, so I added two powder packets in the box. My hair is now bright yellow/orange. It looks horrible. What can I do? Help!"  -Ann


Call your hair salon for an emergency appointment right now! The powder packets you used are bleach activators to color hair blond like Madonna's or Marilyn Monroe's. It will take a skilled professional to properly tone your hair back to a believable color. The lesson learned here is always read instructions thoroughly before you begin any at-home coloring process.