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Baby bumps seem to be the biggest trend for 2008. Halle Berry, Jessica Alba, and Jennifer Lopez are all pregnant. Gwen Stefani recently announced that she is pregnant with her second child. The rumor mill is running rampant suggesting Angelina Jolie is pregnant again simply because she looked beautiful in a flowing dress at the SAG Awards. The glamorous celebrity world has become enamored with babies. Women often look more beautiful today during and after pregnancy than ever before. Is there a new secret out there to share with the rest of us mere mortals? Is it really all about being happy?
I do believe that being happy is key to looking your most beautiful. It affects your attitude and the way you feel about yourself. When you feel beautiful, you most always look beautiful. That fact said, you still have to work at looking good everyday. Pregnancy does present some challenges, but nothing you can't handle.
So you gained a few pounds and because your hormones are on a rampage, your hair can turn excessively oily or dry. It can grow at lightning speed or seem to stop growing for a full nine months. If you are lucky, your hair will actually grow in thicker and longer than normal.
Perhaps the most dreaded moment is when your doctor says you can't color your hair. At first you think, "Okay, that's doable,” but as the pounds come on, you realize your fate. You are becoming a full figured woman with roots. This is a tough pill to swallow, especially for moms to be with grey hair. Dark roots are acceptable, even hip. Grey roots just look dull and frumpy.
I always recommend that my clients follow their doctor’s advice. If your doctor says "don't color your hair,” don't color your hair! If you are trying to become pregnant, bring your hair color closer to its natural color. This will prevent harsh root lines as your color grows. If you have grey hair you are going to have to be a bit more creative. Think about moving your part or not having one at all. Something as simple as a head band can camouflage and extend a touch up for a couple months.
Many doctors suggest coloring hair after the first trimester. If this is the case, you are golden, as in blond, ginger as in red, or chocolate as in brown. Make the most of your hair to go with your new curvaceous body. Hair that is a pinch brighter always gives your complexion a bit of a glow. Now is the time to pick a brighter shade or add a few extra highlights around your face. When people start telling you how great you look, just smile and look demure. Glance down and barely touch your baby bump. They will never guess your baby glow was helped with a little hair color. They will just think you are a beautiful, pregnant woman.
Now is not the time to be practical. If you want to wear your hair long, wear it long. Long hair is the easiest hair to maintain and you can always tie it back. Just be sure your hair is shaped to your face. Remember to always allow for a changing face shape and body proportion throughout your pregnancy. This should be kept in consideration, especially for women who want to sport a new short 'do. Your hair style should always be able to accent your best features and camouflage your worst. Short hair should always be pretty and flirty, and long on style.
Baby bumps are the start of a new beginning. They can also be the beginning of a new and more beautiful you. Have Julia Roberts and new mom Naomi Watts ever looked better? I don't think so!
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Are you sick and tired of bad hair days? I mean, really, is there anything more heartbreaking? There is nothing more frustrating than trying to get it together for a special night and having your hair flop. You can have on killer shoes, perfect-fitting jeans and your favorite top, and still look like a Lindsay Lohan mug shot!When your hair doesn't look good, it doesn't matter what you are wearing, you don't look good. Your hair is your most important fashion accessory. To help prevent this beauty tragedy from ruining one more night in 2008, I came up with five simple tips to help guarantee great looking hair all year long:
1. First thing's first! A great hair cut and hair color are key to looking extraordinary all year long. This provides the foundation to ensure your hair will look good every day.
TIP - Keep it real! Pick a color and cut that works with your hair texture and hair color.
TIP - Note the two year rule. If your are wearing the exact same style and cut for two years or longer, it's time for a change. This does not mean you have to have a dramatic change every two years. The smallest changes will keep you looking modern. It can be as simple as a change of part, bangs or no bangs, or trimming your hair one inch.
2. Stay within a few shades of your natural color. This is the perfect way to make sure your new color compliments your skin tone.
BEAUTY WARNING! - If you have to wear more make-up to make your new hair color work, you have picked the wrong color. That added plus of staying within your own color range is that your re-growth will be minimal.
3. Use the correct styling products for your hair. Use lighter products on fine hair that add volume without weighing your hair down. Mousses and root lift products work best on fine hair. Heavy creams work best on thick, coarse hair. They add control without making hair look stiff or frozen in place. Silicone serums and light creams work best for controlling frizzies on all hair textures.
4. Mood swings! The easy way to instantly change your look is with a hair accessory. You can change the look of your style in a split second. This is a great way to go from day to night. Hair accessories are appropriate for almost any age. Rule of thumb, over forty, keep it simple.
5. It's okay to cheat! Clip-on hair is perfect for everything from bad hair days to party nights. Pony tails are always in. Tie hair back, and clip on your fantasy hair. You will look perpetually chic.
TIP - Avoid thick hair pieces. Thin pieces look much more natural when clipped on your hair. The best part is you take it off at the end of the day. Clip on hair is not harmful to your hair.
I think the first tip of today's post is the most important: A great hair cut and color is the best way to look good every day, all year long.
Play it safe. Work with your hair texture and accent your natural color and you will look great every day. The rest is easy!
Want to learn Louis Licari's five secrets to improve your locks in 2008?
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As I stumbled back to my apartment from a brutal shopping day on "Black Monday" with shopping bags in hand, I was hit by the reality that the holiday season has arrived. It's here! Shopping time, party time, and time to be sure that you have acknowledged friends, family, and everyone that has helped you throughout the year.
It sounds like fun until you look at your "to do" list and your very full calendar. Then you realize your life has turned into an endurance race. Panic kicks in as you think of all your responsibilities. So much to do, and so little time! You feel like running home and jumping into bed and hiding under the comforter. (Sorry to say this doesn't work.)
You can make it through the holiday season with grace, and dignity. Not to add extra pressure, but I am sure you will want to look great for every party and family get together from today to New Year's Day. We tend to see more old friends, go to office parties and get-togethers with the neighbors. Nothing feels better than hearing the occasional "You're looking great" from someone you haven't seen recently.
I know you are thinking, “This guy has to get a grip. This ‘glam’ time will not fit in my life," but it can! So take a moment to chill, and let's figure out how you can make it through the holiday season looking great. The first step is to have a plan so you will be prepared for any and every occasion. It's not a big deal.
Here are five easy points to get you through the season:
1. If you color your hair, do it now. Nothing looks more festive than a fresh touch up. Even if you wear your color with roots showing, make sure your ends are bright. You might think about kicking up your color a shade or two. Remember, a small change can make a big difference.
2. Cut your hair. The only exception would be if you are on a mission to grow your hair long. It doesn't have to be a dramatic hair cut. Your hair cut must be a great shape for your face. Are your layers too long? Does your hair only look good when you tie your hair back? Call for your hair cut appointment today.
3. Come up with three party styles. They don't have to be elaborate. (Check out the pictures below for some simple yet stunning ideas.) Remember you will often be running from work to party without time to go home. Time is of the essence. You must be able to do each one yourself.
One could be your every day style looking perfect.
TIP - The smallest amount of backcombing can transform your day hair to party hair.
The second could be your hair with a different texture. This is the perfect time to experiment making your hair wavy, curly, or straight.
TIP - Bring your curling iron or flat iron to work. Five minutes in the ladies room can do wonders to make hair more glamorous. Concentrate on the top layers of your hair. That's what people will notice.
The third should be an updo that you can do yourself and without a mirror. It can be as simple as a twist with the ends of your hair fanning out.
TIP - Updo's work best on days that you don't shampoo your hair.
4. Add a bit of bling. A delicate headband or ornament will instantly brighten your face and give your hair more of an evening look.
TIP - Less is more. The most understated clip or headband can look the most glamorous.
5. Carry a small bag of supplies that can prepare you for any occasion. It should be small enough to toss in your purse, so you can keep with you at all times. You never know when you will have to give yourself an instant makeover for an impromptu get together. It should contain your favorite mini size styling products, bobby pins that match your hair color, clips, and that touch of bling.
TIP - Be sure to include and spray your hair with a smidgen of your favorite fragrance.
Now you are ready to party! Sometimes at the last minute we all have the feeling, "Do I really have to go out tonight?" The answer is yes, and getting ready will help put you in the mood.
Once you are there, you will have a great time. Kick back and have fun! You know you are the best looking woman at the party!
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It can be a perfectly brilliant day. Everything is going great, the sun is out, and you feel good about yourself. You are loving life. ...Then it happens.
You are walking down the street and glance at a pair of "must have" shoes in a store window. As you feel your body becoming full of desire, your heart stops. You see your reflection in the store window. You notice your hair. You are horrified. Your roots are out.
I am not talking about dark "rock star" roots. I am talking about "Oh no! I'm grey!" roots. Grey usually starts right at your hairline around the age of thirty something. How unfair is this? Thirty isn't old. You don't feel old. But there it is, like a breaking news bulletin for the whole world to see. You're not a kid anymore.
What is even more annoying is that you notice your grey hairs before anyone else. When you look in the mirror to comb your hair or touch up your lipstick, the first thing you see are those first coarse, wire-like grey hairs that literally pop out of your head. Not only did they show up overnight, they look like they belong to someone else's head. To make matters worst, you know more greys will follow. None of this puts a smile on your face.
But let's get real! It's not the end of the world. We just have to learn how to deal with our dreaded first few and incredibly annoying grey hairs.
Sometimes grey hairs come out in one spot. This is a good thing. This makes it easy just to cover the grey hairs and color the rest when you want to, not because you have to.
TIP - Buy disposable mascara brushes. They make it easy to apply color specifically to your new grey hairs. This is especially important at touch up time.
WARNING: Don't overlap hair color. The hair around your hairline is a finer texture than the rest of your hair. This means it will absorb color quicker and darker. I would use a permanent color, a shade lighter than your natural color. Use a color with a neutral base. The base color is labeled on the bottle. This will provide the best grey coverage. Since you are covering only a spot of grey hairs, there is no need to mix the entire bottle of color. Mix only as much as you are going to use.
Remember, once the color is mixed it will only work for a half an hour. Reseal the unmixed color and developer in their own bottles and they should last at least a year. I promise you will use the color faster than its expiration date.
Sometimes grey hair grows in scattered throughout your head. There often isn't enough of it to read as grey hair, but it does make your hair look dull and lifeless. The solution to this problem is to apply a semi-permanent color all over your hair in a lighter shade than your natural color. This will cover the grey hairs and emphasize your natural highlights. When you pick the right hair color shade, the grey hairs will appear to be highlights. This looks great and will avoid an obvious root line.
WARNING: Semi-permanent colors can appear darker and more opaque than their color description. Always color a few strands of hair at the nape of your neck before you apply color to your entire head. This will allow you to see your new color and avoid any surprise endings.
The most difficult grey to cover is usually people with dark hair who seem to have gone grey overnight. They usually have a high percentage or a large streak of grey. This color combination shows no mercy. It can require touch-ups as often as every two weeks. You can make your hair a bit lighter, so the grey hair isn't as obvious as it grows in. This only works if a lighter hair color works with your complexion.
If lighter hair washes out your skin color, you must maintain your dark hair. The solution is to cover all the roots with the appropriate color every four to six weeks. You can cover the grey you notice, usually around your face and on part of your hair, more frequently. Remember to do a shade test before you use any color on your hair. A dark hairline almost always looks harsh and artificial.
Color companies have made between time touch-up kits for this specific purpose and they do work. Read the web sites or the charts on the color boxes. Be sure to pick the right color shade. Take your time so you don't over lap color. It's easy to do and you will be loving life again when your grey is covered.
Blondes go grey too. They usually have an easier time with grey, because it's not as obvious on lighter hair. Highlights will blend away grey hair initially, but at one point you will have to do an all over color.
TIP: Don't go too blond. Your face will blend with your hair color and you will disappear. Contrast is the key to looking vital. If you look like Casper the Ghost before make-up, it's time to go a shade darker.
There is no doubt that covering grey hair is a bore to maintain. The good news is that nothing you do will make you look prettier, younger, and more vibrant than covering your grey. Some at home kits only take 10 minutes and at the most a half an hour. It is the quick fix that works! Now why where we panicked about a few grey hairs? I barely remember!
Hair Credit: Arsen Gurgov
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I must admit I was tossing and turning most of Thursday night. Friday morning was the first of my new "Heads Up" Ambush Makeover series for the Today show. I had to find two people from the crowd that stands around the plaza who wanted "live time" makeovers.
Live time means all the action takes place in real time. Everything has to work perfectly. There is no time for redo's. What you see is what you get. This means I have about three hours to pick the models, color and style their hair, have their make up done, and then dress the women. The whole process is like a cross between online and speed dating. You "meet and greet" your date in a public place, in this case the plaza of the Today show. If they seem to be nice and you want to know them better, you arrange for another meeting, or in this situation, a makeover. You never really know what your are getting into, but whoever wanted a boring life, anyway!
The excitement was in the air. When the women found out they could be chosen for a complete and instant makeover, pandemonium took over. People where screaming for me to pick them. My adrenaline was immediately rushing through my body. I was thrilled and overwhelmed with the crowd's enthusiasm. I had to scout the plaza for the best possible makeovers. The pressure was on. I ran around the perimeter of the plaza to check out the crowd. I was looking for "diamonds in the rough" or women who do not take advantage of their natural good looks. I spotted the makeovers instantly.
The first woman was Joyce Runner from North Canton, Ohio. Joyce had highlights and a old perm that she crunched into shape with gel. She had worn her hair in the same style and color from the '80s. This was a woman in need. When I picked her she was so excited, she started to cry. I know it sounds bizarre, but I became a bit misty eyed myself. I guess you had to be there. It's one of those moments you never forget.
The second makeover model had a smile that was electric. She literally lit up the crowd. Louie Floresca was an Asian woman from Seattle, Washington with very long dark hair. Her hair was its natural dark color, but she had colored her hair many times in the past and always loved it. She was game for change. She was in desperate need of a cut, and dying (no pun intended) for color. I found my makeovers!
Joyce had to get rid of her perm and frosted highlights. If she had her perm and color from the early '80s and it's 2007 now, she was about 20+ years overdue for a new look. Wearing the same hair style and hair color for five years is being stuck in a rut. Wearing the same hair for twenty plus years is a major red flag.
Arsen Gergov, a stylist from my New York and Beverly Hills salon, cut into her perm. He cut off her perm and worked with her natural wave. The soft fringe and shaping around her face made her look younger and her hair look fuller. The blow dry was simple and chic. I changed her hair color with a light golden red hair color wash. Her skin color immediately came to life.
Louie was not only ready for a makeover, she welcomed it. I lightened her hair to a light golden brown color, and then I painted brighter highlights around her face. I know many of you are thinking why I would choose to make Louiei's hair so light. Louie loves to have fun with her hair color. Hair color choices don't have to be, and most likely are not, forever. Hair color is fashion. It can change as often as your hem line.
TIP - If you do want a dramatic change, always see a professional colorist.
Arsen cut a side swept fringe with long layers. Louie's cut and color worked together to change her face shape. She looked ten pounds thinner and her beautiful face glowed.
When you color your hair the right shade you don't have to wear as much makeup. I always suggest changing your lipstick with your new hair color. It the easiest way to make your new color pallet work for you.
We had a blast doing the first of the "heads up" ambush makeover series. The next one is scheduled for Friday, November 16th. I hope to see you there and I will answer as many of your beauty questions as possible when I am combing the crowds looking for the next makeovers.
Come and say hello in the Plaza on Friday, November 16th . My next makeover might be you!
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Nicole Kidman, Jennifer Aniston, Katie Holmes, Angelina Jolie, Julia Roberts, Cameron Diaz, Jessica Simpson, and Lindsay Lohan all have their own W Magazine cover for the November issue. Do you know what else they have in common? They all are wearing big, sexy, beautiful hair. Their hair color is perfect, and the hair looks as shiny as a Pantene conditioner commercial. You know what I mean, when the hair looks so polished and perfect that it doesn't look quite real. This is a “heads up" for all of us mere mortals to notice. Hair that is in great condition is a major beauty trend this season. It also looks alluring, sultry, and young. I think it might be the perfect time to talk about conditioning our hair.
The first question is do hair conditioners work? Everyone knows that once hair grows from your head it's dead, so how can it be brought back to life? Well, conditioning can't bring hair back from the dead, but we can make it look better than it ever did before you brushed it, teased it or put in too much color. Hair conditioning is an illusion that works. Most conditioners contain keratin which is an amino acid. This will resurface the hair and not wash out completely, but it should be maintained from shampoo to shampoo.
Conditioners can add moisture, strengthen fragile hair, detangle, add gloss, and add light oils to keep hair pliable. Hair conditioners can make dry, dull, beat up hair look more like the hair you fantasize about. Hair in good condition looks like the hair you had in your teens. This gives your hair a more vital look, just like good skin and bright eyes. Everyone over thirty knows exactly what I am talking about and what a difference this makes in our appearance. One of my Beverly Hills clients once told me that at a certain point, it is all a matter of patch, patch, patch. I am starting to understand what she meant.
Before I start talking about conditioners, we should talk about proper hair maintenance. Treat your hair with love. Moderation is key. The more you abuse it with frequent blow-outs, extreme coloring, and styling products with high alcohol content, the more you will need to condition your hair.
The condition of your hair is predetermined by its texture. Curly hair is usually dry hair. This means you should probably use a thick, rich, moisturizing conditioner.
TIP - If your hair is exceptionally course, do not rinse out all of the conditioner. This will help keep the hair moist, pliable, and manageable.
The curse of fine hair is that it usually has no body, goes flat instantly, and is often fly away. Most people with fine hair refuse to use conditioners because they fear conditioner will exaggerate these conditions. They are wrong.
TIP - Use a delicate conditioner on the ends of hair only. Fine hair is the most delicate hair. You must carefully use a wide tooth comb on the ends of your hair and work upwards towards your scalp. This will help prevent split and fly away ends.
BEAUTY NOTE - Volumizing shampoos and conditioners don't add volume to your hair. They are simply light enough not to make your hair become flat or oily.
If you have normal hair , just shop around and find the best conditioner for you.
TIP - If your hair looks good on day two, you found a conditioner that works for you. You don't have to break the bank finding the right conditioner. Many midrange priced conditioners work well on normal hair.
Leave-in conditioners work best on excessively dry or chemically processed hair. Leave-in conditioners work especially well on women of color. TIP - Less is more. Excessive use of leave-in conditioners will make hair look oily, not glossy.
There is a new Japanese thermal conditioning treatment that does last longer than a few shampoos because the conditioner is flat ironed into the hair with protein and moisturizers. This is especially effective on very damaged hair. This will help the roughed up cuticle to lie down and result in healthier, and shinier looking hair.
If your hair still looks dull after conditioning, it is time to color your hair. Start with a semi permanent color close to your own. This will instantly make your color rich and vibrant.
The new big hair has to look healthy or you are going to look like you are doing a sixties or eighties retro look. This is a no go! Remember this year’s big hair blows in the wind, shines in the sun, and always turns heads. Never forget your conditioner. It is probably the biggest trend of the New Year.
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| Thermal Conditioning Treatment by Shunsuke Takahashi, Louis Licari NY & Beverly Hills |  |
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The “C” word. It is frightening enough to knock the bravest to their knees. Upon first hearing the word “cancer,” we think of death, and dying an ugly death. Modern medicine, inner strength, absolute determination and support from family and friends help us to grow strong and give us the power to beat cancer. So does a good hair day, and to be realistic, during treatment, good hair days are numbered.
I have helped usher many clients through this traumatic period. Hair loss is an "I am sick" label for the world to see. It's tough to fight the battle against cancer. It's even more difficult when you want to hide and can't look at yourself in the mirror. This is never an easy journey, but I can share tips I have learned from my most incredible clients to help make treatment and recovery as graceful as possible.
After you have been diagnosed and treatment has been prescribed, find out how much hair you might lose. Chemotherapy doesn't always mean baldness. Your doctor might be able to tell you how much hair you will lose, but be prepared. Everyone reacts differently to treatment. If your doctor thinks your hair might stay on your head, treat it with tender loving care. It's time to give your hair a break. Just be happy it's on your head. Think about great-looking short cuts. There is nothing more depressing than watching your hair fall to the floor with every brushing. A short hair cut is a great way to avoid this heartbreak and disguise your thinning hair.
I know you are thinking about your hair color. You must talk to your doctor. Most likely the doctor will not permit coloring during, and for a time, following, treatment. If your hair loss is more than 50%, it will be noticeable. Think about buying a wig. I would suggest looking for a wig before you start your treatment. This will allow you to easily match your hair color and texture.
TIP - Buy the thinnest wig you can find. At every oncologist office there is always a nurse who will tell you where the best wig store is for cancer patients. Your hairdresser should also be able to help you pick the hair piece that looks right for you. Thick wigs look fake. The correct texture is more important than if the hair is synthetic or natural. You can pick a hair color that is a bit brighter and richer than your natural color. Your skin color often becomes paler during treatment. The brighter hair color will make your complexion look more vital.
About six weeks after treatment ends, your hair will start to grow back. It will grow about ¼ inch a month. Most likely your hair will grow in a curlier texture than it was before treatment. This curly hair can last about two years before your normal texture returns. It is time for you to go to your hair salon when your hair is about one to two inches long. As your hair grows, have mini trims to give your hair a shape and make it look like a hair style. Most likely you will have fun with your new short hair and, "praise the lord," it will eliminate the "I am sick" look. Don't be surprised when you start receiving compliments on your new hair cut.
After chemo, hair often comes back a bit dull and gray. As soon as the doctor gives you the go ahead, make an appointment for your hair color. Your old color formula is probably not the right color for your new hair. Your hair is probably a shade darker, grayer, curlier, and definitely shorter. This is the time for a reevaluation of your hair color. Your hair colorist can help lead you in the right color direction. Highlights are not usually the answer at this time. Highlights on short hair tend to look spotty. An over all color is usually the best option for post treatment hair. It’s gentle on your hair and will instantly brighten your hair color.
Finally, your hair has started to grow back. You have a great cut and you are coloring it again. You are feeling like yourself. If your hair is a bit too short or dark, it really doesn't matter. You can adjust the cut and color over time. You are on the road to your second chance at life. You will never take tomorrow for granted again. You know that it is a treasured gift.
Ivis was my first makeover and a cancer survivor of 14 years. At this point, her hair has almost returned to its normal texture. I think living well and looking beautiful is the best revenge. Lena of Louis Licari New York, gave her long layers for a full body cut with shape and definition. She reshaped a side swept bang to soften Ivis's features. I brightened Ivis's brown hair and complexion with caramel highlights. The tip is to maintain an overall brown look with highlights so her hair brightens her face and provides contrast with her olive skin tone.
Vanessa had long wavy dark hair that was overwhelming. Lena cut 12 inches into Vanessa’s naturally wavy hair so she can wear it natural or straight. I softened Vanessa’s dark brown hair to a dark auburn with painted on highlights of a brighter red. This made her hair look less heavy and dense.
By the way, I was in Los Angeles coloring hair on Saturday thinking about writing this blog post. My one o'clock appointment was Michelle Carr, a great looking woman with short hair and a smile that filled the room. I was running a bit late, but when I finally got to her, I didn't want to leave her. She was on the far side of cancer treatment and ready to color her hair. She immediately pulled out a bag of wigs and showed me all her different looks. There were wigs that were brown, auburn, highlighted, and even blond.
She found a way to have fun in the most frightening time of her life. It reminded me of the saying life is 10% what happens to you and 90% how you react. I will never forget her or her excitement about life and her new hair color. Her attitude was contagious and it filled the salon. Good spirits, an optimistic attitude, and the ability to do whatever it takes helped Michelle through this horrific disease.
Taking control of your hair loss and regrowth is empowering. Don't allow yourself to be frozen by fear. Taking action is the key to power, strength, and wellness.
This blog is dedicated to my mother, Grace Licari, a cancer survivor for 25 years.
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The big question I am asked every year is "How is everyone wearing their hair?” Long? Short? As I predicted in June's blog "trend alert!" short hair is showing up everywhere. Katie Holmes, Victoria Beckham, Rihanna, Ellen Barkin, Jenny McCarthy, and many more are all sporting the new bob. Honorable mentions must be given to Vogue's Anna Wintour for making this chicer than chic styles her trademark.
BEAUTY NOTE - Anna's hair style is the same, but her hair color has gone through a metamorphosis. Anna Wintour is now a "no doubt about it blond."
That is all news but it is not the hair headline. The mane story this year is big hair is back. Full sexy hair is the look. Whether it is long or short, wavy or straight, doesn't really matter. This is the year to plump up your hair. Volume is key to update any style. Penelope Cruz, Eva Mendes, Kate Moss, Hayden Panettiere, Jessica Biel, Anne Hathaway, Emmy Rossum, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Gisele Bundchen are all celebrities that have opted for big hair. Even the short trend setting bobs are worn full. The reason why so many have tossed their flat iron is simple. Big hair is soft and sexy. It makes almost every one look beautiful.
A little height in the hair is flattering to everyone. It is the instant way to add a touch of "sex kitten" to your look. Before you run to the drugstore for an industrial size can of hair spray please finish reading this blog. Big hair this go-around has a new look and feel. It certainly is not like it was in the 60's, 80's, or even the early 90's. It moves when you do, and it is soft and touchable. The body and volume is throughout the hair, not just the crown of the head. Hair looks fluid, never like it's has been frozen in place.
TIPS FOR "BIG HAIR" 2007-2008!
1. Light products are essential. Hair should look clean, not product heavy. Use a shampoo, conditioner, and styling products that are appropriate for your hair texture. Hair should never look coated or weighed down. Styling products must give body but never make the hair look stiff. I must shamelessly give my Louis Licari Root Lift Spray a plug here. It gives just enough hold and is never sticky. The added bonus of root lift products is they give lift to the roots and leave the ends of the hair with its natural texture.
1. Blow dryers, round brushes, hair spray, and even rollers are back. They never actually went anyplace. I must tell you that I have never been to a shoot where the hair dresser did not use these tools. No matter how the model's hair ends up looking the hairdresser always starts out with a blow dry and then a set of velcro rollers. This is a sure fire way to give hair lift and body even if it is to be worn straight. Hair styled to be worn straight hair also requires the use of a paddle brush.
TIP - Flip head over and concentrate on straightening the ends of the hair with a paddle brush. This will give you a straight hair look and maintain body and fullness throughout your hair. The smallest amount of hair spray used after the comb out is the last part of the hairstylist ritual.
TIP - Give your hair a quick mist of hair spray while it is still in rollers for extra body. By the way, I think that hair spray is the closest product that both professional and amateurs use. Fess up! I know you have your favorite spray hidden someplace. This gives body to the finest hair. Don't worry, if you only use a fine mist you won't look like a dowager.
3. A great cut with long layers is the foundation for big hair. This gives the hair easy lift for fullness. This works on all textures of hair. If your hair is very fine barely layer the ends. This will maintain fullness and provide movement.
4. If your hair has waves, show it off! Emphasis the wave with a large barrel curling iron. Place the curling iron in the same direction as your wave. This will result in a glamorous wave and not little girl curls.
5. I know that women with fine hair are thinking, "Great! What am I suppose to do this year?" Fine hair can look fuller too. The tip here is to not overdo your hair. This will make your hair look like a stiff and teased hair style from another era. Modern hair should always look free and easy. Start with a good cut with barely-there layers. Blow-dry your hair, using a volumizing root lift, with a round brush lifting the hair off the scalp. Very gently back-comb the root of your hair. Lightly use hair spray for extra support. These steps will give your hair maximum fullness. If hair is very fine you must keep your hair very short.
Short styles give the illusion of fullness to the finest hair. If longer hair is your fantasy you should consider a hair piece or extensions. I am sure that celebs like Sharon Stone's and Paris Hilton's long hair styles have been attached in a few hours rather than grown for years.
WARNING - Woven or glued extensions on delicate fine hair can lead to some hair loss. Clip-on falls and extensions are gentler to the hair.
This is the year of glamorous and feminine hair. Hair should look effortlessly styled. Think big, live large, and look beautiful!
More from Louis Licari
- Try on hairstyles by Louis Licari on Makeover-O-Matic!
When I first heard the title of Monday’s Today Show segment was "Frumpy to Fabulous," I was a bit disconcerted. Who am I to call anyone frumpy? Believe me, I seldom walk around looking as polished as when you see me on the Today Show. I would have to own up to more than a few frumpy days myself, and I'm not talking.
I realize that all of us have days when we don't quite get our look together. I also know the easiest way to spoil any day is to feel frumpy. It's hard to hold your head high and shoulders back when you'd rather disappear. I helped five women change their color and style to make it easy for them to always look fabulous. By the way, that is the first tip!
TIP - A great style and cut is the easiest way to always look good.
Now, let's meet the women and find out their “frumpy to fabulous” secrets:
Diana's long, blond hair was beautiful. The problem is she had too much of a good thing. The length made her face look long, the pale blond hair color washed out her complexion.
Adel of Louis Licari New York, cut Diana's hair into a chin length bob. The new length combined with the side part and long swept bangs immediately changed Diana’s face from square to heart shaped. The side swept bangs camouflaged a high forehead. The new length also softened her jaw line. Now that Diana’s hair cut transformed her face shape, it was my turn to adjust her hair color.
TREND ALERT! - I put a blush of a soft golden red on her blond hair. This kept the lightness of Diana’s natural blond hair, but made it more vibrant.
TIP - When you add color to your hair, you add color to your complexion. Hair color is the makeup that doesn't wash off.
Mia was a diamond in the rough. She just needed to be cut and polished to show off her brilliant good looks. Adel started Mia's transformation by cutting off the fried ends of her hair. This made her hair look healthy and gave it body and bounce.
TIP - The best conditioning treatment for fried hair is a trim.
Mia's natural color was medium brown that turned golden brown from her perms. I loved how this looked on her, so I exaggerated her color with dark, golden blond highlights.
TIP - When highlighting hair that has been previously chemically processed, add one or two caps of water to your coloring mixture. This will make the hair color more gentle. The highlights outlined her hair style and lit up her face.
Jennifer had fine hair that she wore just below her shoulders. She highlighted her naturally light brown hair to a golden blond. This all sounds great, but something wasn't working. Her hair was not flattering. Adel cut Jennifer’s hair to chin length. He then soften her facial features by adding long layers. This immediately plumped up the texture of her hair. It instantly looked fuller.
TIP - Hair should only be as long as its texture will allow.
Now it was my turn to look at Jennifer's hair color. Her hair color clashed with her skin color. It was beyond gold, it was yellow. Jennifer needed to add depth to her hair color. I used a translucent brown color to add depth and not cover all the nuances of her hair.
TIP - Adjusting your hair color is the easiest way to make your skin tone the most flattering shade.
Amy is the epitome of the girl who wants to have fun with her cut and color. She walked in the salon with a long layered haircut with frosted blond highlights on her almost black hair. (Yes, I said frosted!) She had worn the biggest smile and was ready for any change. Adel gave her a layered cut that is shorter at the nape and longer in the front. The layers made her hair look less flat and flattered her oval face shape. Now I needed to adjust the color.
Amy's pale blond highlights where much too light for her dark hair. Her highlights looked grey and made her hair dull.
TIP- The tone of your highlights must relate to your natural color.
I lightened Amy’s overall color to help blend in her pale highlights. This got rid of the grey tones and made her hair look brighter.
Vanessa had long wavy hair that she wasn't ready to cut. She was frightened that any haircut would make her hair look wild and out of control. She loves the ease of being able to tie her hair back and run to work. She wasn't ready to make a change. Her hair was scared straight!
TIP - If you are not ready for a change, do not make one. You have to live with and love your hair, not your hairdresser. You can always cut your hair next time.
Adel did take the ends off of Vanessa's hair to give it a crisp line and then gave her a sleek blow-dry. Everyone was happy! I was able to convince Vanessa to add a few golden highlights to the top layers of her hair. She never colored her hair before and was a bit nervous. The color change was slight, but it made a big difference. It gave her hair a golden glow.
Now you have been introduced to the five fabulous women who where brave enough to show themselves on one of their frumpy days. This is required TV for all of us who have ever experienced a frumpy day. So, I guess that means I will see you all on Monday. See you then!
More from Louis Licari
- Try on hairstyles by Louis Licari on Makeover-O-Matic!
Spring Fashion Week 2007 is winding down. It started in New York and went to London, Milan, and Paris. I attended events, read the newspapers, and perused the internet, watching for the newest trends in beauty. I found myself looking at the models so closely, as if they were under a microscope. The big news this season wasn't something new I saw, it's what I did not see. Highlights! There wasn't one streak on the runway. Is this the end of an era? Should I have my foils recycled into sandwich wrappers?
Wait a minute! I just did a segment on The Today Show last week on at home highlights, and the models looked great. How could this be? Am I becoming the "Jekyll and Hyde" of hair color? Not to worry, I think I still have my wits about me! The look of highlights and hair color in general has taken a radical change.
It is definitely the time for a revaluation of your hair color.
The way I see it is that there are three parallel universes: They are made up of the LA contingent (actors), the traveling gypsies (models), and we the people (you and I).
Actors are still having a love affair with highlights, but the romance might be on the wane. Think of some recent A-listers who have chosen a solid hair color. Nicole Kidman, Naomi Watts, Scarlett Johansson, and most recently young Hollywood's Rumer Willis and Nelly Furtado have become all over blonds. Angelina Jolie, Hilary Swank, Kate Beckinsale, Teri Hatcher are various shades of brown without a highlight in sight. Susan Sarandon, Julianne Moore, and Julia Roberts have chosen to be quintessential red heads.
The model world is small and has fewer main players. They are usually so young and beautiful that they still have great natural color that needs very little help. Most of the time semi-permanents and glazes are the colors used on these girls to add shine and to make their hair colors rich. But this is not the reason why models are not wearing highlights. Highlights are not the look this season on the runway.
Then there are the "we the people" in the real world. You know, the people who work, maintain a home, occasionally have fun, and always try our best to look great. It's not easy. Who has the time to watch television, read newspapers and fashion magazines, and go to movies to watch for new trends? Not too many people I know. So let me make it easy for you and give you the 411 on hair color today.
All over colors are becoming more important. Hair color with high contrast to the base color is out of date. Your hair should never look streaked, ash, and above all, frosted. Highlights still work and are the prettiest and most natural way to make you and your hair color look brighter.
Highlights are not to be ignored. Anything that helps us look prettier, younger, less stressed and tired, is something we should take full advantage. The tone of today’s highlights are different. They must blend with your base color. Special effect colors, bold stripes, dark tips, or colors not found in nature are out of style. Color that looks like you where born with it (if you were incredibly lucky!) is what's in. Today’s lesson is to keep it real.
TIP - If you want a dramatic color change, don't try to do it with highlights alone. You must apply a single process color first.
Hair color should look like it is yours, not from your hair colorist. This season's hair color theme, "keep it real and keep it simple." (By the way, I am keeping my highlighting foils!)
More from Louis Licari
- Try on hairstyles by Louis Licari on Makeover-O-Matic!
Did you ever feel like you were in a rut?
I don't think that there is anything more depressing. A rut can be a bad relationship, a dead end job, or just the dismal feeling that this is life as good as it gets. Well, I am not a shrink, so I can't help you with these life issues, but I can help you with another horrible rut that we sometimes fall into.
You know that feeling when you let yourself go to seed? You really don't even realize it's happening until one day, you look in the mirror and say, "Who the heck is that?" or, "Oh, no. That can't be me." Staring back is usually a woman who hasn't cut or colored her hair in over a year, and probably hasn't even put on a pinch of lipstick.
My guess is that when women stop caring about their looks, it is a subconscious effort to "disappear." This allows them to "check out of life" for a while when things become a bit difficult, confusing, or just boring. Most hairdressers would agree that if a loyal client's maintenance schedule has become more than a bit lax something is usually not right in their personal lives. In fact, it's almost a shout for help. That's when friends, families, and hairdressers can group together and take the first step to help bring someone back to their life.
TIP - A hair cut, hair color, and a bit of makeup can be the quick fix that works to put on an instant smile, which is the beginning of a total new attitude about life.
The first thing I want to say about the makeovers for today’s segment is they are all wonderful, open minded, and bright women who's lives where forced to take some detours.
Junith home schooled her children and the children of others for a number of years that led to years of an isolated at home existence. Beth relocated to Florida to pursue a successful online relationship, but is still feeling out her new "digs." Diane entered nursing school after the death of her husband to start her life over. All three women are bold and brave. All three women needed complete makeovers.
Junith's hairline had become progressively grey over the years. She liked a warm brown hair color, but it would become a yellow-orange color around her face after a few shampoos.
TIP - Use a darker formula on the hairline where her hair is very grey, and another softer formula on rest of the darker hair. The end result is now more of an even shade and will look natural longer.
Vanessa, a talented stylist in my New York salon, cut many broken ends from Junith's hair to make it instantly look healthy and then gave her a soft wave. Junith now looks so fresh and young that I don't think her students would recognize her!
Diane let her hair grow long and grey after her husband’s death. Then she started nursing school and her looks went to the bottom on her list of priorities. She is a real care giver. She helps the elderly and Alzheimer’s patients. She spends no time on herself. I could not wait to get my hands on her hair!
Her grey hair washed her out, aged her, and gave her that "earth mother" look. You didn't have to be a genius to realize that restoring her brown hair color and cutting her excessively long hair to a chic bob would instantly transform Diane into an attractive and elegant woman.
TIP - Making Diane’s hair brown brought her complexion back to life. Vanessa's bob hair cut showed off Diane’s face shape. She now looks classic and timeless.
Beth moved to another state for love and never found a hair cutter she liked. She wore a classic mistake: She had two haircuts on one head. Short on the top and long hair in the back.
WARNING - Two hair cuts on one head are never allowed. You must blend the cuts together.
Vanessa cut over two feet of hair (!), blending the short and long of Beth’s hair. This cut shows off Beth’s beautiful face that was lost under all of her hair. I added more depth to her very blond hair and instantly emphasized her blue eyes and beautiful pale complexion.
These three women where open and ready for change. They were not only ready, but anxious to re-enter the world. I have a feeling their lives have just begun to change.
If you missed it live this morning, here's a clip from TODAY to see these life changing transformations. I can't wait to see what tomorrow will bring for them!
More from Louis Licari
- Try on hairstyles by Louis Licari on Makeover-O-Matic!
- Fall Hair Makeovers
- Teacher Makeovers
- Father's Day Makeovers
Highlighting is and has been the most popular blonde-ing process for many years. Probably because it is the most natural way to add color and dimension to your hair. Every set of highlights is unique to you, your hair color, and your hairstyle. Highlights can look like you were lucky enough to be born with them or like you live at your hair salon. They can look youthful and naive or sophisticated and elegant. This is exactly why they are so popular. No two highlights look exactly alike.
The style of highlights is always changing. Audrey Hepburn was the first to make platinum stripes her trademark in Breakfast at Tiffany's. Farrah Fawcett's streaks made her the Charlie's Angel we will never forget. Christie Brinkley looked perpetually kissed by the sun, Cindy Crawford wore two face-framing chunks of obviously fake blonde around her face and Gisele Bundchen only bothered to highlight the bottom half of her hair. They all looked fabulous.
You ask who are my favorite celebrities with highlights this season? I'd have to go with with Reese Witherspoon, Ali Larter, Portia de Rossi, Natalie Morales, Giuliana DePandi, Heidi Klum, and let's not forget the incessantly beautiful 
Michelle Pfeiffer.
Now that we decided that highlights are a great way to color your hair, let's talk about the easiest and the least expensive way to maintain this color. The answer is to do it yourself at home. I can see your eyes crossing as you are reading this blog, but I am going to walk you through this process step by step. Now take a deep breath and continue to read. I am going to keep this really simple.
The first decision is whether to use a hair painting kit or a highlighting cap. The color mixture for the cap is stronger and can make your hair blonder. The cap does make it more difficult to place the highlights exactly where you want them because you are pulling the strands from a general area through holes in a "hat".
Hair painting kits simplify the process. There are hair painting kits made especially for blondes, brunettes, and red heads. The color mixture is not as strong as the cap and they automatically develop to the appropriate shade to brighten your base color. You can also apply the hair color mixture on the exact hair you want highlighted. The hair painting kit delivers more "sure fire" natural results. Hair painting kits also prevent the aging "frosted" look from highlights that are too white. Always keep at-home hair color as simple as possible. Use a hair painting kit for at-home highlights.
TIP - Skip the highlighting cap. Go to a salon if you want a more dramatic result than a hair painting kit can provide.
Now it's time to read the directions on the color box. (I know! Boring!) Reading the directions can make the difference between looking like you are ready to walk the red carpet or like you need to wear a baseball cap.
Directions will tell you how to mix the color correctly and remind you not to forget to use your gloves. Pretty hair color and stained fingers don't go well together. Directions will explain how long to leave the color mixture on your hair. Usually, the lighter you want your hair to be the longer you leave the mixture on. I think all highlights should be within two shades of your base color.
Here is the TRADE SECRET to have your hair come out the perfect shade: Do a preview test. A preview test is mixing a small amount of the hair color together and doing a test on a tiny strand of your hair. This will allow you to see exactly how long it takes for your hair to become the perfect shade. The guess work is now gone and you are ready to highlight your hair.
The next step is to figure out what you want your color to look like.
TIP - Think of a celebrity’s hair color to give yourself a mental picture or a map of where you are going to place the highlights.
Style and dry your hair as you will wear it, or cut it first if you are going to sport a new style. This will allow you to see the natural nuances in your hair and where they fall. Most likely these are the strands of hair you will want to exaggerate with a brighter color. The strands to highlight are usually around the face or the focal points of your hair cut, i.e. Where your hair parts, where it is layered, or on the bangs.
TIP - To make the focal points of hair brighter you can always add a few more highlights on a second go-around. Remember, less is more, and contrast with your base color is what gives your hair color dimension.
Applying the color is easy. Dip the brush that comes with the kit into the highlighting mixture. Place a small amount of color on the tip of the brush and paint strands on as evenly as possible. You know how long to leave the color on because you have already done your preview test. Set your timer and shampoo and condition when the alarm goes off. You're done! It's that simple! Now dry your hair and get ready to fall in love.
I helped a model do her hair live on the Today Show on Tuesday, September 25. Watch the segment again (or for the first time if you missed it live!) to learn all my tips:
Watch the segment from TODAY:
Tune into TODAY on Wednesday to watch Louis help some women who are "stuck in a rut" become fabulous!
More Coloring Tips from Louis:
This morning's segment on TODAY is fall hair trends. At first I thought this would be an easy entry to write because I just got back from the Emmys and I personally witnessed the latest and the greatest moments in fashion and beauty. As I was sitting at LAX waiting for my plane back to New York I was organizing my thoughts about the trendsetters and the fashion faux pas from the night before. And then it hit me and I made a sudden realization. How does this effect us, you know, "we the people?”
We all like to look good, stylish, sexy, pretty, handsome, and somehow show a bit of our personality. At the same time our look has to work with our lifestyle, budgets, and our day-to-day schlepping around. Does this mean we can't look like a movie star? I don't think so! I think we can look great, trendy, and like a million dollars for a lot less. It does take a little effort, but the rewards and response from friends and co-workers are priceless. Nothing is a greater luxury as an adult than having a few moments to take care of your self. Halle Berry, George Clooney: move over! The people that buy the Twizzlers and the popcorn at the movie theaters are about to take over.
TODAY sent three ladies to my New York salon to illustrate today’s beauty trends. All had tons of personality. They just flew in from different states around the country, and they never had met each other before. They had one thing in common however, and that was their attitude. Cindy Lauper described it best in her song, "Girls Just Want To Have Fun." With a few snips of the scissors, a bit of hair color, and a few Cosmo’s, the women had a totally new look.
My first future trendsetter was Sherry