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Once I talk with the potential makeover and feel that she is ready for a major change, the race to the reveal begins. The women's looks are in my hands. I have about two hours to make a transition that usually takes about a year. Oh, and by the way, remember I am doing this live on national TV. Now, do you understand what I mean when I say I am "juiced?”
Are you a diamond in the rough? Have you not cut or colored your hair in the last six months? Are you so busy with your children, husband, and career that there's not a second left for you? Have you given into weight gain, a few wrinkles, or a few grays? You might be a diamond in the rough and it could be time for a makeover!
First of all, you don't have to be ambushed on the TODAY show to get a great makeover. You can do it at home. I would recommend that you start with your haircut. A great haircut that looks good with your face shape is the foundation of your new look. I know you're thinking, "Great, but where do I find this perfect haircut?" Look around whenever you're out and if you see a great haircut, ask who cut it. The person with the cut will be flattered and you might have found a new hairstylist. Call and go for a consultation. Let the hairdresser know you are ready for a new look. Be open to suggestions. If you don't agree with the stylist at all, you probably are in the wrong salon. Move on and go for more consultations.
Once you find the best hairdresser for your hair, make an appointment. You don't have to start with a major change. Your makeover can happen over time. The most important thing is to get started. Make a small change with each haircut. You will have a new look before you know it. Once you have a new haircut, it's time to rethink your hair color. The first step is to look at your hair color today. Is it dull, grey or flat looking? Has it become darker over time? Is it flattering to your complexion? If not, do something about it. You can color your hair at home or at the salon. When you want a major change, it's best to go to the salon. Not only do they have the skills and materials, professionals have the "color eye" to look at you. They can see immediately what color would be best on you. Besides picking the right color for you, the mess of color stays at the salon, not in your bathroom.
The last part of the makeover is the finish of the hair or the blow dry. The blow dry can make a good haircut great. Hair should look groomed, but never forced into place. You should develop your blow drying skills, so you are not a slave to your hairdresser. Now you're ready for a little make-up and a whole new you.
By the way, I am watching the most glamorous Grammy award show I have ever seen while writing this blog. Almost gone are the edgy fashions, hair, and make-up typical of the music industry. For the most part, the women looked like old Hollywood. Armani, Calvin Klein, and Celine were the designers of choice for the Grammy’s 50th anniversary. The hair was as glamorous and modern as the dresses.
Alicia Keys had three wardrobe changes with two hair changes. She looked absolutely beautiful in her elegant faux hawk. Beyoncé had a new log bob with a shorter nape that was blonder than she has ever been. Fergie looked like she was ready to accept an Academy Award. She wore her hair long, blond, and wavy. New teen sensation, Miley Cyrus had the same hair style as Fergie, only wore a brunette shade. Rihanna’s new short hair du jour looked great with her bangs down and up and off her face.
The writers’ strike is all but over, and it looks like everyone is ready to celebrate. The Academy Awards are 13 days away, but who's counting?
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Baby bumps seem to be the biggest trend for 2008. Halle Berry, Jessica Alba, and Jennifer Lopez are all pregnant. Gwen Stefani recently announced that she is pregnant with her second child. The rumor mill is running rampant suggesting Angelina Jolie is pregnant again simply because she looked beautiful in a flowing dress at the SAG Awards. The glamorous celebrity world has become enamored with babies. Women often look more beautiful today during and after pregnancy than ever before. Is there a new secret out there to share with the rest of us mere mortals? Is it really all about being happy?
I do believe that being happy is key to looking your most beautiful. It affects your attitude and the way you feel about yourself. When you feel beautiful, you most always look beautiful. That fact said, you still have to work at looking good everyday. Pregnancy does present some challenges, but nothing you can't handle.
So you gained a few pounds and because your hormones are on a rampage, your hair can turn excessively oily or dry. It can grow at lightning speed or seem to stop growing for a full nine months. If you are lucky, your hair will actually grow in thicker and longer than normal.
Perhaps the most dreaded moment is when your doctor says you can't color your hair. At first you think, "Okay, that's doable,” but as the pounds come on, you realize your fate. You are becoming a full figured woman with roots. This is a tough pill to swallow, especially for moms to be with grey hair. Dark roots are acceptable, even hip. Grey roots just look dull and frumpy.
I always recommend that my clients follow their doctor’s advice. If your doctor says "don't color your hair,” don't color your hair! If you are trying to become pregnant, bring your hair color closer to its natural color. This will prevent harsh root lines as your color grows. If you have grey hair you are going to have to be a bit more creative. Think about moving your part or not having one at all. Something as simple as a head band can camouflage and extend a touch up for a couple months.
Many doctors suggest coloring hair after the first trimester. If this is the case, you are golden, as in blond, ginger as in red, or chocolate as in brown. Make the most of your hair to go with your new curvaceous body. Hair that is a pinch brighter always gives your complexion a bit of a glow. Now is the time to pick a brighter shade or add a few extra highlights around your face. When people start telling you how great you look, just smile and look demure. Glance down and barely touch your baby bump. They will never guess your baby glow was helped with a little hair color. They will just think you are a beautiful, pregnant woman.
Now is not the time to be practical. If you want to wear your hair long, wear it long. Long hair is the easiest hair to maintain and you can always tie it back. Just be sure your hair is shaped to your face. Remember to always allow for a changing face shape and body proportion throughout your pregnancy. This should be kept in consideration, especially for women who want to sport a new short 'do. Your hair style should always be able to accent your best features and camouflage your worst. Short hair should always be pretty and flirty, and long on style.
Baby bumps are the start of a new beginning. They can also be the beginning of a new and more beautiful you. Have Julia Roberts and new mom Naomi Watts ever looked better? I don't think so!
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Check back later for some behind-the-scenes tales only Louis could tell!
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What's going to happen if the writers strike doesn't settle? Can you imagine a year without the Academy Awards? Besides not showcasing the best movies and performances of the year, where would we look for our fashion and beauty inspiration? I mean, let's face it. If we have to look at one more paparazzi shot of Britney Spears, Lindsay Lohan, Paris Hilton, or Kim Kardashian, I am sure people will start to burn magazines, throw shoes at their flat screens, and pray that their computers crash. If the strike continues, people will be forced to run to Starbucks in Beverly Hills to gawk at the stars. The sidewalk to Starbucks could be, lord help us, the red carpet of 2008.
Can you imagine hearing Ryan Seacrest ask the actors about their new hair style and hair colors, and their response is that they needed a touch-up so they threw it back in a pony tail. The ever-present "who are you wearing" question would be answered "Juicy Couture and Uggs.” We could be in deep trouble.
I choose to have faith that the Oscars will go on and we will have another opportunity to watch the "creme de la creme" of fashion and beauty, and sometimes the faux pas that make even more news than those that are dressed well.
The most important fashion accessory besides hair, fashion, and jewels, is the arm candy that escorts you to the awards. The right arm piece can cover a multitude of sins. If you are Angelina Jolie and you look a bit too thin, does it really matter if you have Brad Pitt on your side? Will anyone notice or hear the comments of an ill-fitting dress over the “oohs” and “ahs” of the glamorous couple? I don't think so!
As far as predicting who is going to win the awards this year, I don't have a clue. The actors’ performances across the board were extraordinary. I do, however, think I have a little insight on how they will look: Glamour will prevail. Actors will look like old movie stars. They will be the modern versions of Rita Hayworth and Cary Grant. Hair will have wave and movement. Hair will be worn down, except for the occasional up-do. Hair color will be bright, but natural. Make-up will feature strong lips and eyes. Eyeliner is the most important make-up trend of the season. No woman will be without at least the slightest trace around her lid.
The countdown to the Oscars has begun. We have seen some of the most celebrated faces and bodies look incredible over the years and others who left us thinking, "What was she thinking?" I hope and pray that we will have the opportunity to watch the hits and misses of the “Superbowl of fashion and beauty” on Oscar’s 80th anniversary this year. It is scheduled for February 24th, 5PT/8EST.
Keep your fingers crossed everything is a go. I already bought my 94% fat free microwave popcorn. Let's hope the Academy is ready. I mean, really, guys; it is the best night of the year!
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Since it is almost New Year's, I though I should talk about the most important trend of 2008. There is no doubt in my mind that the color red will be the most significant trend of the new year. The color red blows every other hair color away. Blonds and brunettes pale by comparison. Red is vital and demands attention.I can hear the people reading this blog thinking, "No way am I going red!" Calm down! I am not saying that everyone has to be a no doubt about it, red head, but red undertones can help every color to come alive and make you look prettier. Think about the difference between an ash blond and golden blond or an ash brown and chocolate brown. The ash colors are drab and drain the color from your complexion. The warm (red) base colors make your skin color come alive. This is what today's hair color is all about. Hair color should brighten your look. When you have the right hair color, it should look like you have on a bit of makeup. Red tones will make every hair color more dynamic.
BEAUTY WARNING! I must address all people with sallow complexions. You must avoid lighter warm shades. They will blend with your skin color and make your skin appear more sallow. This is a major beauty faux pas. You should choose a darker color to provide contrast with your skin color. Dark golden blonds, deep chocolates, and dark auburns work best with sallow complexions.
TIP - If you have to wear more makeup to make your new hair color work, you have picked the wrong hair color.
Two perfect examples of the power of red are our last two "Ambush Makeovers."
The second makeover was Debbie from Worcester, MA. She works with special needs children and had no time for herself. Debbie had golden highlights on her brown hair and she looked good. But, I wanted her to look great. I made her hair a rich auburn color and the stylist gave her a beveled back bob. The new Debbie looked like a movie star!
Do hair color and hair cuts make a difference in the way you look? The answer is yes! The biggest trend in 2008 is warmer colors. This is the easiest way to update your look.
The color pallet for 2008 includes golden blonds, strawberry blonds, light golden browns, chocolate browns, auburns, and true reds.
BEAUTY WARNING! - These colors must always look natural, not like they come from a bottle. Copper tones usually look the most natural.
Look hot, add a pinch of red, and have a Happy New Year!
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The clock is ticking. Five minutes until we are live, showing the reveal of this week’s "Ambush Makeovers" on TODAY. The room is humming with the sound of a blow dryer. The hairstylist is giving the makeover her final touches. Everything is coming together. There are…5, 4, 3, 2, 1 seconds left, and it's show time!
A great blow dry is the key to any makeover. A good blow dry can make fine hair look full, hold full hair in shape, and add shine to dull looking hair. You can look like a makeover every day if you perfect your blow drying skills. You can and should know how to blow dry hair like the hottest stylist in town.
Here are some INSIDER TIPS for a perfect blow dry:
- What's your problem, lady?
Look at your hair and figure out what you need to do to make your hair look better. Do you have fine, wispy hair? Do you have thick, out of control hair?
Realizing this will help you decide which styling product is best for your hair. Picking the right styling products will help you to have a better blow dry and provide protection from heat of your blow dryer.
Use lighter products like mousses, gels, or root lifting sprays, on fine hair. You want products that will add volume without weighing your hair down. Heavier hair creams and liquids work best on thick hair. They will add control without making hair look stiff or frozen in place. Silicone products are the perfect solution for frizzy hair. - Get organized!
After shampooing, blot excess moisture from hair. Never blow dry hair that is dripping wet or 100% dry. Totally wet hair takes too long to dry. Blow drying hair that is completely dry will easily damage and burn your hair.
Gently detangle your hair, using a wide tooth comb. Part your hair and comb in the direction you want your hair to fall. Clip the top half of your hair on top of your head. Now you can start to blow dry hair at the nape of your neck and work towards the top of your head in 1"-2" sections. - Round is best!
Use a round brush to give hair lift, control, or fullness. The size of the brush is determined by the length of the hair: The shorter the hair, the smaller the brush. Using a larger round brush works best on most hair. They can make curly hair straight or add movement to straight hair. - Hands up!
Lift your blow dryer high so you can aim the dryer pointing down. This will make it easier to control your hair dryer and help to prevent frizz. Never over dry your hair. This will make your hair look dull, dry, and fried. - Own it!
Now is the time to make the final adjustments to your hair. Brush it through for a more controlled look or use your fingers to comb through or place hair for a softer look. The old “head flip” with a pinch of hair spray is an easy way to add support and extra volume and fullness. - Practice makes perfect!
Don't become frustrated if your hair isn't perfect. You will become better with every blow dry. If your blow dry just isn't working at home, talk to your stylist when you go for your next hair cut. Your stylist will probably tweak your hair cut to make it easier for you to manage.
I want to give special thanks to last week’s makeovers, Beth and Evelyn. They are two great looking women who became more beautiful in just a few hours time. I'm wondering if they are at home practicing their blow drying.
Wowing the Plaza with her voluminous hair!
Another "Ambush Makeover" is happening tomorrow in the Plaza! Will Louis choose you? Come on down to TODAY with your homemade signs for a chance at a makeover!
More About Blow Drying on iVillage:
- How to Use Blow Dryers and Attachments
- Shop for the Perfect Hair Dryer
- Try on hairstyles by Louis Licari on Makeover-O-Matic!
What else did you expect me to say? “Don’t touch your color, it's beautiful!” I made a career of doing makeovers. Believe it or not, sometimes I do suggest that people should not change their hair color. If it's pretty, leave it alone. Sooner or later it will be time to color your hair. Sometimes it's a matter of a few annoying grey hairs, or more frequently realizing the need to brighten your look. Sooner or later, most women discover hair color.
Having one career in a lifetime seems passé. Women often reinvent themselves over and over. Makeovers have become the norm. Whatever the reason for the transformation, a new cut or color can change your attitude, confidence, and the way you view life.
Friday's "Ambush Makeovers" provided two examples of women who needed and were ready for change. Barb Cunningham from Colorado had worn her hair the same way for about thirty years. That's about 28 years too long. She was in desperate need of a makeover. Her hair was too long, and it was starting to turn grey. Her grey hair was not obvious. She had just enough to make her hair look a bit lackluster.
Arsen Gurgov cut ten inches from her hair which Barb generously donated to "Locks of Love". "Locks of Love" is a charity that turns your hair into wigs for children in need. Arsen cut her hair with long layers that gave fullness and a shape that flattered her face. TREND TIP - Full hair is in, flat ironed hair is out. She looked softer, younger and prettier. I made her hair lighter and warmer. It was close to Barb’s natural hair color, but it made a huge difference. TIP - Covering the smallest amount of grey hair will immediately make you and your hair look more vibrant. She ended up looking like a movie star. The only thing missing was the paparazzi.
The next makeover was Jennifer Purcel from the Bronx. She had just received her PhD from the University of Florida in higher education. She was about to enter the professional world and wanted a new look to go with her new life. Jennifer was wearing her hair too long for her fine hair texture. TIP - Hair texture determines appropriate hair length. Jennifer’s long hair made it look thin and see-through. Arsen gave her a bob haircut with barely there layers to create movement and maintain fullness and body. I made her hair a shade darker to create the illusion of more hair. I then added highlights only to the top layers of her hair to add depth and the impression of fullness. Jennifer looked like a new woman and the quintessential professional.
When you are ready for a new look or when you want the world to look at you differently a mini-makeover is the way to go. Think about a new hair cut, hair color, and even a bit of make-up. Small changes in the way you look can be the start of a new and better you. It's too easy not to do!
Click the video link below to watch the results of the latest Plaza Ambush Makeover! What do you think of the ladies' new looks?
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Meet this week's makeovers, Karen and Lori:
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Click here to see the big reveal of their fabulous TODAY Ambush Makeovers on the Plaza!
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It can be a perfectly brilliant day. Everything is going great, the sun is out, and you feel good about yourself. You are loving life. ...Then it happens.
You are walking down the street and glance at a pair of "must have" shoes in a store window. As you feel your body becoming full of desire, your heart stops. You see your reflection in the store window. You notice your hair. You are horrified. Your roots are out.
I am not talking about dark "rock star" roots. I am talking about "Oh no! I'm grey!" roots. Grey usually starts right at your hairline around the age of thirty something. How unfair is this? Thirty isn't old. You don't feel old. But there it is, like a breaking news bulletin for the whole world to see. You're not a kid anymore.
What is even more annoying is that you notice your grey hairs before anyone else. When you look in the mirror to comb your hair or touch up your lipstick, the first thing you see are those first coarse, wire-like grey hairs that literally pop out of your head. Not only did they show up overnight, they look like they belong to someone else's head. To make matters worst, you know more greys will follow. None of this puts a smile on your face.
But let's get real! It's not the end of the world. We just have to learn how to deal with our dreaded first few and incredibly annoying grey hairs.
Sometimes grey hairs come out in one spot. This is a good thing. This makes it easy just to cover the grey hairs and color the rest when you want to, not because you have to.
TIP - Buy disposable mascara brushes. They make it easy to apply color specifically to your new grey hairs. This is especially important at touch up time.
WARNING: Don't overlap hair color. The hair around your hairline is a finer texture than the rest of your hair. This means it will absorb color quicker and darker. I would use a permanent color, a shade lighter than your natural color. Use a color with a neutral base. The base color is labeled on the bottle. This will provide the best grey coverage. Since you are covering only a spot of grey hairs, there is no need to mix the entire bottle of color. Mix only as much as you are going to use.
Remember, once the color is mixed it will only work for a half an hour. Reseal the unmixed color and developer in their own bottles and they should last at least a year. I promise you will use the color faster than its expiration date.
Sometimes grey hair grows in scattered throughout your head. There often isn't enough of it to read as grey hair, but it does make your hair look dull and lifeless. The solution to this problem is to apply a semi-permanent color all over your hair in a lighter shade than your natural color. This will cover the grey hairs and emphasize your natural highlights. When you pick the right hair color shade, the grey hairs will appear to be highlights. This looks great and will avoid an obvious root line.
WARNING: Semi-permanent colors can appear darker and more opaque than their color description. Always color a few strands of hair at the nape of your neck before you apply color to your entire head. This will allow you to see your new color and avoid any surprise endings.
The most difficult grey to cover is usually people with dark hair who seem to have gone grey overnight. They usually have a high percentage or a large streak of grey. This color combination shows no mercy. It can require touch-ups as often as every two weeks. You can make your hair a bit lighter, so the grey hair isn't as obvious as it grows in. This only works if a lighter hair color works with your complexion.
If lighter hair washes out your skin color, you must maintain your dark hair. The solution is to cover all the roots with the appropriate color every four to six weeks. You can cover the grey you notice, usually around your face and on part of your hair, more frequently. Remember to do a shade test before you use any color on your hair. A dark hairline almost always looks harsh and artificial.
Color companies have made between time touch-up kits for this specific purpose and they do work. Read the web sites or the charts on the color boxes. Be sure to pick the right color shade. Take your time so you don't over lap color. It's easy to do and you will be loving life again when your grey is covered.
Blondes go grey too. They usually have an easier time with grey, because it's not as obvious on lighter hair. Highlights will blend away grey hair initially, but at one point you will have to do an all over color.
TIP: Don't go too blond. Your face will blend with your hair color and you will disappear. Contrast is the key to looking vital. If you look like Casper the Ghost before make-up, it's time to go a shade darker.
There is no doubt that covering grey hair is a bore to maintain. The good news is that nothing you do will make you look prettier, younger, and more vibrant than covering your grey. Some at home kits only take 10 minutes and at the most a half an hour. It is the quick fix that works! Now why where we panicked about a few grey hairs? I barely remember!
Hair Credit: Arsen Gurgov
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I must admit I was tossing and turning most of Thursday night. Friday morning was the first of my new "Heads Up" Ambush Makeover series for the Today show. I had to find two people from the crowd that stands around the plaza who wanted "live time" makeovers.
Live time means all the action takes place in real time. Everything has to work perfectly. There is no time for redo's. What you see is what you get. This means I have about three hours to pick the models, color and style their hair, have their make up done, and then dress the women. The whole process is like a cross between online and speed dating. You "meet and greet" your date in a public place, in this case the plaza of the Today show. If they seem to be nice and you want to know them better, you arrange for another meeting, or in this situation, a makeover. You never really know what your are getting into, but whoever wanted a boring life, anyway!
The excitement was in the air. When the women found out they could be chosen for a complete and instant makeover, pandemonium took over. People where screaming for me to pick them. My adrenaline was immediately rushing through my body. I was thrilled and overwhelmed with the crowd's enthusiasm. I had to scout the plaza for the best possible makeovers. The pressure was on. I ran around the perimeter of the plaza to check out the crowd. I was looking for "diamonds in the rough" or women who do not take advantage of their natural good looks. I spotted the makeovers instantly.
The first woman was Joyce Runner from North Canton, Ohio. Joyce had highlights and a old perm that she crunched into shape with gel. She had worn her hair in the same style and color from the '80s. This was a woman in need. When I picked her she was so excited, she started to cry. I know it sounds bizarre, but I became a bit misty eyed myself. I guess you had to be there. It's one of those moments you never forget.
The second makeover model had a smile that was electric. She literally lit up the crowd. Louie Floresca was an Asian woman from Seattle, Washington with very long dark hair. Her hair was its natural dark color, but she had colored her hair many times in the past and always loved it. She was game for change. She was in desperate need of a cut, and dying (no pun intended) for color. I found my makeovers!
Joyce had to get rid of her perm and frosted highlights. If she had her perm and color from the early '80s and it's 2007 now, she was about 20+ years overdue for a new look. Wearing the same hair style and hair color for five years is being stuck in a rut. Wearing the same hair for twenty plus years is a major red flag.
Arsen Gergov, a stylist from my New York and Beverly Hills salon, cut into her perm. He cut off her perm and worked with her natural wave. The soft fringe and shaping around her face made her look younger and her hair look fuller. The blow dry was simple and chic. I changed her hair color with a light golden red hair color wash. Her skin color immediately came to life.
Louie was not only ready for a makeover, she welcomed it. I lightened her hair to a light golden brown color, and then I painted brighter highlights around her face. I know many of you are thinking why I would choose to make Louiei's hair so light. Louie loves to have fun with her hair color. Hair color choices don't have to be, and most likely are not, forever. Hair color is fashion. It can change as often as your hem line.
TIP - If you do want a dramatic change, always see a professional colorist.
Arsen cut a side swept fringe with long layers. Louie's cut and color worked together to change her face shape. She looked ten pounds thinner and her beautiful face glowed.
When you color your hair the right shade you don't have to wear as much makeup. I always suggest changing your lipstick with your new hair color. It the easiest way to make your new color pallet work for you.
We had a blast doing the first of the "heads up" ambush makeover series. The next one is scheduled for Friday, November 16th. I hope to see you there and I will answer as many of your beauty questions as possible when I am combing the crowds looking for the next makeovers.
Come and say hello in the Plaza on Friday, November 16th . My next makeover might be you!
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Nicole Kidman, Jennifer Aniston, Katie Holmes, Angelina Jolie, Julia Roberts, Cameron Diaz, Jessica Simpson, and Lindsay Lohan all have their own W Magazine cover for the November issue. Do you know what else they have in common? They all are wearing big, sexy, beautiful hair. Their hair color is perfect, and the hair looks as shiny as a Pantene conditioner commercial. You know what I mean, when the hair looks so polished and perfect that it doesn't look quite real. This is a “heads up" for all of us mere mortals to notice. Hair that is in great condition is a major beauty trend this season. It also looks alluring, sultry, and young. I think it might be the perfect time to talk about conditioning our hair.
The first question is do hair conditioners work? Everyone knows that once hair grows from your head it's dead, so how can it be brought back to life? Well, conditioning can't bring hair back from the dead, but we can make it look better than it ever did before you brushed it, teased it or put in too much color. Hair conditioning is an illusion that works. Most conditioners contain keratin which is an amino acid. This will resurface the hair and not wash out completely, but it should be maintained from shampoo to shampoo.
Conditioners can add moisture, strengthen fragile hair, detangle, add gloss, and add light oils to keep hair pliable. Hair conditioners can make dry, dull, beat up hair look more like the hair you fantasize about. Hair in good condition looks like the hair you had in your teens. This gives your hair a more vital look, just like good skin and bright eyes. Everyone over thirty knows exactly what I am talking about and what a difference this makes in our appearance. One of my Beverly Hills clients once told me that at a certain point, it is all a matter of patch, patch, patch. I am starting to understand what she meant.
Before I start talking about conditioners, we should talk about proper hair maintenance. Treat your hair with love. Moderation is key. The more you abuse it with frequent blow-outs, extreme coloring, and styling products with high alcohol content, the more you will need to condition your hair.
The condition of your hair is predetermined by its texture. Curly hair is usually dry hair. This means you should probably use a thick, rich, moisturizing conditioner.
TIP - If your hair is exceptionally course, do not rinse out all of the conditioner. This will help keep the hair moist, pliable, and manageable.
The curse of fine hair is that it usually has no body, goes flat instantly, and is often fly away. Most people with fine hair refuse to use conditioners because they fear conditioner will exaggerate these conditions. They are wrong.
TIP - Use a delicate conditioner on the ends of hair only. Fine hair is the most delicate hair. You must carefully use a wide tooth comb on the ends of your hair and work upwards towards your scalp. This will help prevent split and fly away ends.
BEAUTY NOTE - Volumizing shampoos and conditioners don't add volume to your hair. They are simply light enough not to make your hair become flat or oily.
If you have normal hair , just shop around and find the best conditioner for you.
TIP - If your hair looks good on day two, you found a conditioner that works for you. You don't have to break the bank finding the right conditioner. Many midrange priced conditioners work well on normal hair.
Leave-in conditioners work best on excessively dry or chemically processed hair. Leave-in conditioners work especially well on women of color. TIP - Less is more. Excessive use of leave-in conditioners will make hair look oily, not glossy.
There is a new Japanese thermal conditioning treatment that does last longer than a few shampoos because the conditioner is flat ironed into the hair with protein and moisturizers. This is especially effective on very damaged hair. This will help the roughed up cuticle to lie down and result in healthier, and shinier looking hair.
If your hair still looks dull after conditioning, it is time to color your hair. Start with a semi permanent color close to your own. This will instantly make your color rich and vibrant.
The new big hair has to look healthy or you are going to look like you are doing a sixties or eighties retro look. This is a no go! Remember this year’s big hair blows in the wind, shines in the sun, and always turns heads. Never forget your conditioner. It is probably the biggest trend of the New Year.
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| Thermal Conditioning Treatment by Shunsuke Takahashi, Louis Licari NY & Beverly Hills |  |
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The “C” word. It is frightening enough to knock the bravest to their knees. Upon first hearing the word “cancer,” we think of death, and dying an ugly death. Modern medicine, inner strength, absolute determination and support from family and friends help us to grow strong and give us the power to beat cancer. So does a good hair day, and to be realistic, during treatment, good hair days are numbered.
I have helped usher many clients through this traumatic period. Hair loss is an "I am sick" label for the world to see. It's tough to fight the battle against cancer. It's even more difficult when you want to hide and can't look at yourself in the mirror. This is never an easy journey, but I can share tips I have learned from my most incredible clients to help make treatment and recovery as graceful as possible.
After you have been diagnosed and treatment has been prescribed, find out how much hair you might lose. Chemotherapy doesn't always mean baldness. Your doctor might be able to tell you how much hair you will lose, but be prepared. Everyone reacts differently to treatment. If your doctor thinks your hair might stay on your head, treat it with tender loving care. It's time to give your hair a break. Just be happy it's on your head. Think about great-looking short cuts. There is nothing more depressing than watching your hair fall to the floor with every brushing. A short hair cut is a great way to avoid this heartbreak and disguise your thinning hair.
I know you are thinking about your hair color. You must talk to your doctor. Most likely the doctor will not permit coloring during, and for a time, following, treatment. If your hair loss is more than 50%, it will be noticeable. Think about buying a wig. I would suggest looking for a wig before you start your treatment. This will allow you to easily match your hair color and texture.
TIP - Buy the thinnest wig you can find. At every oncologist office there is always a nurse who will tell you where the best wig store is for cancer patients. Your hairdresser should also be able to help you pick the hair piece that looks right for you. Thick wigs look fake. The correct texture is more important than if the hair is synthetic or natural. You can pick a hair color that is a bit brighter and richer than your natural color. Your skin color often becomes paler during treatment. The brighter hair color will make your complexion look more vital.
About six weeks after treatment ends, your hair will start to grow back. It will grow about ¼ inch a month. Most likely your hair will grow in a curlier texture than it was before treatment. This curly hair can last about two years before your normal texture returns. It is time for you to go to your hair salon when your hair is about one to two inches long. As your hair grows, have mini trims to give your hair a shape and make it look like a hair style. Most likely you will have fun with your new short hair and, "praise the lord," it will eliminate the "I am sick" look. Don't be surprised when you start receiving compliments on your new hair cut.
After chemo, hair often comes back a bit dull and gray. As soon as the doctor gives you the go ahead, make an appointment for your hair color. Your old color formula is probably not the right color for your new hair. Your hair is probably a shade darker, grayer, curlier, and definitely shorter. This is the time for a reevaluation of your hair color. Your hair colorist can help lead you in the right color direction. Highlights are not usually the answer at this time. Highlights on short hair tend to look spotty. An over all color is usually the best option for post treatment hair. It’s gentle on your hair and will instantly brighten your hair color.
Finally, your hair has started to grow back. You have a great cut and you are coloring it again. You are feeling like yourself. If your hair is a bit too short or dark, it really doesn't matter. You can adjust the cut and color over time. You are on the road to your second chance at life. You will never take tomorrow for granted again. You know that it is a treasured gift.
Ivis was my first makeover and a cancer survivor of 14 years. At this point, her hair has almost returned to its normal texture. I think living well and looking beautiful is the best revenge. Lena of Louis Licari New York, gave her long layers for a full body cut with shape and definition. She reshaped a side swept bang to soften Ivis's features. I brightened Ivis's brown hair and complexion with caramel highlights. The tip is to maintain an overall brown look with highlights so her hair brightens her face and provides contrast with her olive skin tone.
Vanessa had long wavy dark hair that was overwhelming. Lena cut 12 inches into Vanessa’s naturally wavy hair so she can wear it natural or straight. I softened Vanessa’s dark brown hair to a dark auburn with painted on highlights of a brighter red. This made her hair look less heavy and dense.
By the way, I was in Los Angeles coloring hair on Saturday thinking about writing this blog post. My one o'clock appointment was Michelle Carr, a great looking woman with short hair and a smile that filled the room. I was running a bit late, but when I finally got to her, I didn't want to leave her. She was on the far side of cancer treatment and ready to color her hair. She immediately pulled out a bag of wigs and showed me all her different looks. There were wigs that were brown, auburn, highlighted, and even blond.
She found a way to have fun in the most frightening time of her life. It reminded me of the saying life is 10% what happens to you and 90% how you react. I will never forget her or her excitement about life and her new hair color. Her attitude was contagious and it filled the salon. Good spirits, an optimistic attitude, and the ability to do whatever it takes helped Michelle through this horrific disease.
Taking control of your hair loss and regrowth is empowering. Don't allow yourself to be frozen by fear. Taking action is the key to power, strength, and wellness.
This blog is dedicated to my mother, Grace Licari, a cancer survivor for 25 years.
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Did you ever feel like you were in a rut?
I don't think that there is anything more depressing. A rut can be a bad relationship, a dead end job, or just the dismal feeling that this is life as good as it gets. Well, I am not a shrink, so I can't help you with these life issues, but I can help you with another horrible rut that we sometimes fall into.
You know that feeling when you let yourself go to seed? You really don't even realize it's happening until one day, you look in the mirror and say, "Who the heck is that?" or, "Oh, no. That can't be me." Staring back is usually a woman who hasn't cut or colored her hair in over a year, and probably hasn't even put on a pinch of lipstick.
My guess is that when women stop caring about their looks, it is a subconscious effort to "disappear." This allows them to "check out of life" for a while when things become a bit difficult, confusing, or just boring. Most hairdressers would agree that if a loyal client's maintenance schedule has become more than a bit lax something is usually not right in their personal lives. In fact, it's almost a shout for help. That's when friends, families, and hairdressers can group together and take the first step to help bring someone back to their life.
TIP - A hair cut, hair color, and a bit of makeup can be the quick fix that works to put on an instant smile, which is the beginning of a total new attitude about life.
The first thing I want to say about the makeovers for today’s segment is they are all wonderful, open minded, and bright women who's lives where forced to take some detours.
Junith home schooled her children and the children of others for a number of years that led to years of an isolated at home existence. Beth relocated to Florida to pursue a successful online relationship, but is still feeling out her new "digs." Diane entered nursing school after the death of her husband to start her life over. All three women are bold and brave. All three women needed complete makeovers.
Junith's hairline had become progressively grey over the years. She liked a warm brown hair color, but it would become a yellow-orange color around her face after a few shampoos.
TIP - Use a darker formula on the hairline where her hair is very grey, and another softer formula on rest of the darker hair. The end result is now more of an even shade and will look natural longer.
Vanessa, a talented stylist in my New York salon, cut many broken ends from Junith's hair to make it instantly look healthy and then gave her a soft wave. Junith now looks so fresh and young that I don't think her students would recognize her!
Diane let her hair grow long and grey after her husband’s death. Then she started nursing school and her looks went to the bottom on her list of priorities. She is a real care giver. She helps the elderly and Alzheimer’s patients. She spends no time on herself. I could not wait to get my hands on her hair!
Her grey hair washed her out, aged her, and gave her that "earth mother" look. You didn't have to be a genius to realize that restoring her brown hair color and cutting her excessively long hair to a chic bob would instantly transform Diane into an attractive and elegant woman.
TIP - Making Diane’s hair brown brought her complexion back to life. Vanessa's bob hair cut showed off Diane’s face shape. She now looks classic and timeless.
Beth moved to another state for love and never found a hair cutter she liked. She wore a classic mistake: She had two haircuts on one head. Short on the top and long hair in the back.
WARNING - Two hair cuts on one head are never allowed. You must blend the cuts together.
Vanessa cut over two feet of hair (!), blending the short and long of Beth’s hair. This cut shows off Beth’s beautiful face that was lost under all of her hair. I added more depth to her very blond hair and instantly emphasized her blue eyes and beautiful pale complexion.
These three women where open and ready for change. They were not only ready, but anxious to re-enter the world. I have a feeling their lives have just begun to change.
If you missed it live this morning, here's a clip from TODAY to see these life changing transformations. I can't wait to see what tomorrow will bring for them!
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This morning's segment on TODAY is fall hair trends. At first I thought this would be an easy entry to write because I just got back from the Emmys and I personally witnessed the latest and the greatest moments in fashion and beauty. As I was sitting at LAX waiting for my plane back to New York I was organizing my thoughts about the trendsetters and the fashion faux pas from the night before. And then it hit me and I made a sudden realization. How does this effect us, you know, "we the people?”
We all like to look good, stylish, sexy, pretty, handsome, and somehow show a bit of our personality. At the same time our look has to work with our lifestyle, budgets, and our day-to-day schlepping around. Does this mean we can't look like a movie star? I don't think so! I think we can look great, trendy, and like a million dollars for a lot less. It does take a little effort, but the rewards and response from friends and co-workers are priceless. Nothing is a greater luxury as an adult than having a few moments to take care of your self. Halle Berry, George Clooney: move over! The people that buy the Twizzlers and the popcorn at the movie theaters are about to take over.
TODAY sent three ladies to my New York salon to illustrate today’s beauty trends. All had tons of personality. They just flew in from different states around the country, and they never had met each other before. They had one thing in common however, and that was their attitude. Cindy Lauper described it best in her song, "Girls Just Want To Have Fun." With a few snips of the scissors, a bit of hair color, and a few Cosmo’s, the women had a totally new look.
My first future trendsetter was Sherry. Sherry's hair was a fine texture with a dark blond base and lighter blond highlights. She had so many highlights that her overall color looked solid blond. This color provided no texture, depth or volume to her hair. Full hair is in; flat hair is out. One of the easiest ways to give the look of "more hair" is to introduce a deeper base color at the roots and have hair lighter on the ends. This is called "texturizing color" and one of the most flattering looks for fall.
TIP- Use a darker formula on roots and do not work color through ends.
Trendsetter number two Kathleen was so excited and eager to update her look. She has been married for ten years, is about to renew her wedding vows, and was ready to get her sexy back! Hair color is one of the biggest trends for African American women. Hair color on this texture must be handled with care. There are often other chemical processes on this hair type that make the hair too delicate to color. The solution to this problem is simple and is the newest trend for African American hair color. Highlight extensions adding different shades of color, especially around the face where hair is most delicate, is a most in demand procedure.
TIP- To keep your hair color totally natural, add a few real hair color highlights and supplement them with extensions to maintain your fantasy color.
My third trendsetter was Heather. She walked in with long fine blond hair. Two words that should never be together in the same sentence are "long" and "fine." Trend three; fine hair should always be 
cut to have the illusion of body. Long, fine hair only looks good for five minutes after the blow dry. Adel cut her hair in a timeless bob that will look fuller longer and extremely chic even when it is worn straight. I made heather a soft golden red. It was much more flattering to her skin tone looked natural, and instantly gave her that "star" quality.
TIP- Fine hair requires more products. Mousses are especially effective on thin hair.
Trends for “real people” are what make us look good. The buzz words this season are waves, fullness, and glamour. Hair can be long or short, and any believable color as long as it looks good on your complexion. Be who you are, look the best you can look, and you will be on trend.
Can you relate these ladies' hair before and afters? What do you think?
Before & After Gallery:
More Hair Tips to Try:
