Highlighting 101

Ali LarterHighlighting is and has been the most popular blonde-ing process for many years. Probably because it is the most natural way to add color and dimension to your hair. Every set of highlights is unique to you, your hair color, and your hairstyle. Highlights can look like you were lucky enough to be born with them or like you live at your hair salon. They can look youthful and naive or sophisticated and elegant. This is exactly why they are so popular. No two highlights look exactly alike.

The style of highlights is always changing. Audrey Hepburn was the first to make platinum stripes her trademark in Breakfast at Tiffany's. Farrah Fawcett's streaks made her the Charlie's Angel we will never forget. Christie Brinkley looked perpetually kissed by the sun, Cindy Crawford wore two face-framing chunks of obviously fake blonde around her face and Gisele Bundchen only bothered to highlight the bottom half of her hair. They all looked fabulous.

You ask who are my favorite celebrities with highlights this season? I'd have to go with with Reese Witherspoon, Ali Larter, Portia de Rossi, Natalie Morales, Giuliana DePandi, Heidi Klum, and let's not forget the incessantly beautiful Reese WitherspoonMichelle Pfeiffer.

Now that we decided that highlights are a great way to color your hair, let's talk about the easiest and the least expensive way to maintain this color. The answer is to do it yourself at home. I can see your eyes crossing as you are reading this blog, but I am going to walk you through this process step by step. Now take a deep breath and continue to read. I am going to keep this really simple.

The first decision is whether to use a hair painting kit or a highlighting cap. The color mixture for the cap is stronger and can make your hair blonder. The cap does make it more difficult to place the highlights exactly where you want them because you are pulling the strands from a general area through holes in a "hat".

Hair painting kits simplify the process. There are hair painting kits made especially for blondes, brunettes, and red heads. The color mixture is not as strong as the cap and they automatically develop to the appropriate shade to brighten your base color. You can also apply the hair color mixture on the exact hair you want highlighted. The hair painting kit delivers more "sure fire" natural results. Hair painting kits also prevent the aging "frosted" look from highlights that are too white. Always keep at-home hair color as simple as possible. Use a hair painting kit for at-home highlights.

TIP - Skip the highlighting cap. Go to a salon if you want a more dramatic result than a hair painting kit can provide.

Portia de RossiNow it's time to read the directions on the color box. (I know! Boring!) Reading the directions can make the difference between looking like you are ready to walk the red carpet or like you need to wear a baseball cap.

Directions will tell you how to mix the color correctly and remind you not to forget to use your gloves. Pretty hair color and stained fingers don't go well together. Directions will explain how long to leave the color mixture on your hair. Usually, the lighter you want your hair to be the longer you leave the mixture on. I think all highlights should be within two shades of your base color.

Here is the TRADE SECRET to have your hair come out the perfect shade: Do a preview test. A preview test is mixing a small amount of the hair color together and doing a test on a tiny strand of your hair. This will allow you to see exactly how long it takes for your hair to become the perfect shade. The guess work is now gone and you are ready to highlight your hair.

The next step is to figure out what you want your color to look like.
TIP - Think of a celebrity’s hair color to give yourself a mental picture or a map of where you are going to place the highlights.

Michelle PfeifferStyle and dry your hair as you will wear it, or cut it first if you are going to sport a new style. This will allow you to see the natural nuances in your hair and where they fall. Most likely these are the strands of hair you will want to exaggerate with a brighter color. The strands to highlight are usually around the face or the focal points of your hair cut, i.e. Where your hair parts, where it is layered, or on the bangs.

TIP - To make the focal points of hair brighter you can always add a few more highlights on a second go-around. Remember, less is more, and contrast with your base color is what gives your hair color dimension.

Applying the color is easy. Dip the brush that comes with the kit into the highlighting mixture. Place a small amount of color on the tip of the brush and paint strands on as evenly as possible. You know how long to leave the color on because you have already done your preview test. Set your timer and shampoo and condition when the alarm goes off. You're done! It's that simple! Now dry your hair and get ready to fall in love.

I helped a model do her hair live on the Today Show on Tuesday, September 25. Watch the segment again (or for the first time if you missed it live!) to learn all my tips:


Watch the segment from TODAY:


Tune into TODAY on Wednesday to watch Louis help some women who are "stuck in a rut" become fabulous!



More Coloring Tips from Louis:

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22 Comments

kim said:

I would love to know which kit you used on the model you hilighted on the today show. It's the color I'm looking for.

Thanks.

tm said:

I would like to know the brand name of the hair painting kit you used on the model that looked like Jennifer Aniston. Thanks.

vmtrembley@ Yahoo.com said:

What is the name of the product you are using to hilight hair.

La said:

Same question: what product did you use to highlight on the show and...I just did my hair with Nice n'Easy 2 wks. ago - from all grey to brown - is it ok to highlight on top of that? Thanks! La

jakkiconway@msn.com said:

what product would you use to highlight fine fair hair. thanks

Of course, I went immediately to the store to find hair painting kits....all I found was highlighting kits with different shades....I'm not savvy enough to pick the right one....could you recommend one kit please? Thanks so much!!!

Shari Tracey said:

I am inspired by the 3 make-overs for mature women presented this morning, 9/26/07, on Today. This is reality TV in my opinion. Thank you.

La said:

me again - is there somewhere on this site where you answer the questions? can't find it! or do we just hope to hear the answer on the show? Thanks. La

La said:

3rd time's the charm-maybe someone else asking a question could answer my last question? Really appreciate it. La

Lyn said:

Please tell me what hair painting kit did you use, and where can I purchase it? Thank you.

gamma44@localnet.com said:

What hair painting kit did you use?
Thank you for your answer.

Lana said:

Please help! I'm 58 and about 70% gray and just re-colored my hair at home using Clairol neutral light brown. It's more like DARK brown but did cover all my 'leftover' colors/highlights evenly! Now what? I've always had highlights and really need them to counteract all this darkness!! I wanted NEUTRAL blonde highlights if possible, NOT WARM b/c it's too opposite from my silver roots! My 'natural' color (long ago!) was a medium-to-light brown. I once enjoyed a SALON cut, color, & highlight every 6 weeks, but no more b/c I am not employed. Please advise which brand and COLOR especially, that you would recommend for painting on neutral blonde (not red or brassy or ash) highlights that will lighten my strands to the desired shade...I don't mind a bold contrast between the dark and light; I've always been a bit dramatic! My hair is fine, straight, and medium length with angled bangs. I greatly appreciate your help!!! :) Lana

Marcia said:

Please, can you tell me what vendor has "Hair Painting Kit" I'm not finding it anywhere!!

Thank you!
Marcia

Kim said:

I found a video from InStyle.com with Louis Licari showing the highlighting technique along with other great videos to do your hair at home. The product used was Garnier Nourishing Multi-Lights Highlighting Kit.

Hope this helps!

Sarah said:

Louis,
I have naturally dark brown hair. I have heavily blondes on the top of my head and dark underneath. I want to go pretty dark with carmel highlights. I am in college and not near my usual stylist, and others that I have talked to here have said that it will be difficult and pricey. Would it be a better option for me to do an all over dark color on myself and just have a stylist put the carmel highlights in for me?? Also, in the past I would get a 4/5 underneath but it would always turn a little tint of reddish, so we started doing a ashy brown the last few times but it still fades to a reddish color...is this just because i have not been using high quality shampoo?

karmen said:

i would like to know what shade of highlight you would recommend for someone with medium brown skin (golden undertones) and black hair. i really liked what you did on the today show because her highlights were subtle and not overbearing on her face. i would like to colour at home, but i am not sure of what colour to try on my black hair. thank you!

lita said:

The hair painting kit I bought had a 2nd step that after highlights were processed & washed out, an all-over cream was applied and left on for 5-10 min's. This ended up lightening the rest of my hair (somewhat reddish I thought) and now, a few weeks later, I have dark roots! I want to add, I guess, Low-lights to match my root color, but I don't know what to buy. Are the permanent colors going to be too watery to add just streaks with?

Daniel said:

Good site! Good resources here, All the best!

Lauren said:

Love the hair tips! However non were mentioned for short hair cuts. I'm not talking about your ridiculous trendy Posh cut which in my personal opinion is at every stop light and is ever so reminiscent of the run-a-muk RACHEL! Everyone had to have it, Yikes, where's your identity!! What's with the short hair in the back and long bangs in the front that look like bird wings?? I don't get it. CHOP OFF THE WINGS AND BE FREE!!!

Julie said:

Louis,
I recently got my hair highlighted and it is a bit lighter than usual. The colorist did not get close enough to my roots so alot of my natural medium brown is showing and it looks so dark next to the blonde. Can I put some light brown color on my roots only just to lighten it up a bit. What do you suggest I do?

jamie said:

you should try going to a store like sally beauty supply for everything, and you can get help if you don't know exactly what to get

Tina said:

I would like to know where I can buy a rubber cap for highlighting....anyone know?

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