Less Is More!

People always ask me if I am checking out their hair. The answer is usually yes. It's a bad habit, but I can't help myself. Talk to me, and my eyes will go straight to your hair. I am always on the look out to spot new trends and techniques. I also can't help but notice the occasional beauty faux pas. You know, when hair just doesn't look good.

The solution to the problem could be to become a blond, brunette or red head, or a new haircut. I find that more often the solution is simpler. Do less to your hair to make it look prettier. Who needs to do less to their hair? Anyone who styles or colors their hair within an inch of its life.

flirting with the substance

  • Do you color your hair more than once a month?
  • Do you highlight your hair more than every six weeks?
  • Does your hair color turn brassy overnight?
  • Does your hair look fried unless you have a professional blow dry?
  • Do you use so much styling product that your hair doesn't move in the wind?

If you answered "yes" to any of these questions, you are committing a major beauty faux pas. Don't worry! With a little patience and common sense these are easy problems to fix.

I always say the hardest person to look at is ourselves. Somehow we see ourselves as we were or how we want to be, not as we are. Look in the mirror; better yet look at photos of yourself. Yes, that's what you look like! Pictures don't lie. Now, look at yourself objectively. The rest is easy.

Problem 1:
"I color my hair more than once a month." If you need to color your color more than once a month, you are choosing the wrong shade.

The solution is to pick a shade a little closer to your natural color.

TIP: To wear your hair a little brighter than it should be without being a slave to maintenance, make your root area a pinch darker than the rest of the hair. This will allow longer times between touch-ups, maintain contrast with your complexion, and allow you to be closer to your dream hair color.

Problem 2:
full blown styling and hair color addict"I highlight my hair more often than every six weeks." If you highlight your hair more frequently than every six weeks, your hair probably doesn't look highlighted. It probably looks like a single process over all color.

Highlights should grow out gracefully. They should add dimension and provide contrast with your natural or base color. Highlights should brighten your color, not totally change it.

TIP: Touch up re-growth with fewer but brighter highlights. This will create depth and add contrast to your base color.

TIP: To make hair brighter, apply a neutral medium blond permanent color mixed with equal parts shampoo through your hair for one minute. This will slightly lighten your base color. This should extend your highlight touch-up, allowing the depth of color and dimension to return to your hair color.

Problem 3:
"My hair turns brassy overnight." Hair that turns orange in an instant means you are misusing a product.

Single process permanent hair colors can only lighten your hair successfully a few shades. To use a single process color to lighten hair more than a few shades will make hair orange and brassy.

TIP: To avoid brassy hair color, pick a darker shade. This will help to keep your new hair color true to the shade description on the color box and slow down the oxidation process. Adding a few highlights to your new base color will keep your hair bright and natural looking.

Problem 4:
"My hair looks fried unless I go to the salon for a blow dry." This is a major red flag. You are probably asking your hair to do something it should not do. You are coloring the life out of your hair or torturing it with blow dryers, hot irons, and styling products.

Rethink your hair color and style. Avoid dramatic hair color changes. Be more accepting of your natural hair texture.

girl in recoveryTIP: A haircut followed by a regime of deep conditioning treatments is the best way to eliminate fried ends and have a fresh start.

Problem 5:
"I use so much product that my hair is frozen in place." If your hair only moves when you brush it out, you are a styling product addict. Remember, admitting your problem is the first step to recovery.

Why do you use so much product? Most likely it's because you don't like your hair's texture and you are trying to make it look fuller, straighter, or curlier. Stop the madness! Accept your hair's texture and pick an appropriate style.

TIP: Wash your hair and let it dry naturally. Look at your hair's texture. It might be different than you remember. Women who don’t like the texture of their hair rarely see their hair dried naturally and often forget what it looks like. You might be pleasantly surprised!

Less is more. Small changes almost always look better than complete transformations. Brighten your color or tame your wave, but always look like you. You are beautiful!

27 Comments

denise said:

Love the blog and you! How often should a "Highlighted Blonde" deep condition hair between salon visits? What is the best deep conditioner to achieve a "Silky" feel? Any special "how-to" tricks? Thank you for all the great advice. You're the best!

Lisa said:

I am gray but just abut to turn 50. I look young for 50. How should I wear my make up going into this stage of my life?
Lisa
Still young at heart!

nancy said:

my hair is 95% grey and I have it professionally colored medium brown every 3 weeks. I have highlights as well to pick me up as well as to deflect for my fast regrowth. Problem is I have a low hairline and I see this definite line after one or at the least 2 touch ups. What can I do? The highlights help to camoflage the low hairline but this is a bummer.

Charles said:

Where do I go and what should be done to get a cut that allows my hair to stay just the right amount of messy -without so much styling product?
(You know, that "BedHead" style that is somewhere between Ryan Seacrest's and the singer of GreenDay's hair)
I have made appointments at salons on Boston's exclusive Newbury Street and even expensive salons in NYC where the cost for a mens cut can cost $40 to $60. I seem to have the best luck at the $12 places like NYC's Astor Place ( even though I live near Boston).
Also, I have found that a straight razor works better than the sissor and electric razor combo.
My favorite hair product is a pliable typle such as 'BedHead Manipulator'.
I just want to have that cool messy look without so much fuss. I find myself taking showers just so I can do my hair again. Help!

Tracie said:

How well do department store nonpermanent, highlighting, and root touch up coloring products work? What might be the best of the brands as far as how they treat your hair to cover roots. I fear the highlighting types because I am afraid I'll do the highlighting unevenly with that big plastic cap and the holes.... but I can't afford the salon visit to keep up with color needs. I'm really trying to get back to my original color and stay away from products, but I don't want roots showing, either.

clara said:

Thanks for all these fantastic tips!

Jessica said:

HELP!!!!
Thanks 4 all the great tips.
But i still have a huge problem, my hair is sooooo thin that you can see my ears through my hair(I hardly use any products and I never died my hair before, It is just naturaly way too thin) what can I do???

Jane said:

Thank you for keeping this blog! You've helped me avoid some mistakes and make simple corrections to old ones.

Louis Licari said:

Denise,
Use a deep conditioner as often as it takes to maintain a silky texture. I love my new Instant Deep Conditioner. It is a deep conditioner that only takes minutes to change the feel of your hair. Insiders tip: You can use the Instant Deep Conditioner as a daily conditioner after shampooing if your hair tends to be coarse or dry.
Thank you for being so kind,
Louis

Louis Licari said:

Nancy,
Making your base color a pinch lighter will hold on to your highlights longer and still look right for your complexion. Be sure to apply touch-up color to the roots only. Don’t overlap!
Louis

Louis Licari said:

Charles,
Always make sure that your stylist slices into your hair. This should give you the shredded look you are looking for. A little product is essential for this look but, you should be able to apply the product after your shower and use your hands to put it out of place for the rest of the day.
Louis

Louis Licari said:

Tracie,
At home highlighting kits work and are the most natural way to lighten your hair at home. Try highlighting your hair with a hair painting kit instead of a cap. They are easier to use.
Tip: Start with a few highlights. You can always add more.
Louis

Louis Licari said:

Clara,
My pleasure.
Louis

Louis Licari said:

Jessica,
Thin hair is a tough problem but there are some steps you can take to make your hair look thicker.
1. Wear your hair blunt or wear very long layers.
2. Color your hair. Coloring your hair gives it more body.
3. Mousses and a blow-dryer can help to “blow up" your hair and make it look thicker than it really is.
Louis

Louis Licari said:

Jane,
It's my job. Ha! Ha! I am happy to hear it helps.
Louis

Louis Licari said:

Lisa,
I had a conversation with Enid O’ makeup artist extraordinaire who I always use for my "Today Show" makeovers.
Here is what she had to say:
1. Have a light hand with your makeup. Nothing screams out age more than makeup caught in creases.
2. Wear cream based make up. They tend to be kinder than powders.
3. Enid O's special tip: Always keep the lips moist with a subtle lip gloss. Moist lips always give a youthful appearance.

Louis and Enid O'

jeffrey said:

Hi

I have dark ash blonde hair i highlighted the top and have the original dark sides. Everytime they highligh they make it to bright or the color turns yellow. How can I change the top without affecting the sides?My hair is short

Jeff

doe said:

How can I keep my 1 process, natural curl hair from being frizzy?..without using heating or curling iron/blow dryer on it?

Louis Licari said:

Jeff,
Go back to your hair colorist. Tell him/her that you want to tone down the highlights using a non-lift toner (your colorist will understand). This should soften your highlights and give you a more natural look.
Good luck,
Louis

Louis Licari said:

Doe,
Simple solution. After you wash your hair apply a styling product (i.e. foaming gel) and let hair completely dry. When your hair is totally dry, separate the curls with your fingers. This will guarantee frizz free curls.
Louis

Annie said:

I have a really straight natural fine hair & people always thought that I've done rebonding. How am I able to style & add volume to my hair without to much of blow drying & making trips to the salon?

Beth said:

Hi Louis - I really enjoyed reading your blog and I always love seeing you on the Today Show.

I have dark blond ash colored hair that is fine, naturally curly and easily prone to damage. I'm afraid to go lighter because I'm afraid I'll make my fair skin to appear washed out. I don't mind going darker, but I don't want to go too dark because of the upkeep. I'm trying to find a color I can stick with for a while. Got any suggestions?

I wash my hair every other day, with Wen Cleansing Conditioner. Would you recommend deep conditioning treatments on top of that? Is it something I can do at home? And if so, which products should I use?
Thanks!

debra said:

i'm 38 and my hair is prematurly turning gray. everyone that cuts my hair just loves the color of it because it's almost like streaks of highlighted gray or silver. i'm trying to love it to, but i see so many women my age and sometimes i feel older with it than i should. can you help, what should i do?

Leslie said:

WOW is that the same girl.
Louis, what a fantastic job!!
Beautiful.

Blessings,
Leslie

jeffrey said:

what is none lift color?

Joyce said:

I'm a natural ash blond with short, straight hair.

How can I highlight my hair without salon help?

I used to do it with a gel : got2be soBlonde, but it's no longer available.

thanks!

Jessica said:

Hi,
I have really curly hair and I prefer to straighten. I know this is hard on my hair so I set in rollers without any product. Is there a safer method of straigtening and what products should I use that don't leave a film?

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