Louis Licari: Hair and There Blog at iVillage.com

Hair color is one of the greatest inventions of all time. Cleopatra started the at-home coloring trend with her henna treatments. Venetian woman invented the first highlighting cap in the 16th century. They would gently pull strands of their hair through woven bonnets and then cover them with lye. Surely the fair maidens' hearts skipped a beat when they noticed many of their newly acquired burnished golden strands of hair ending up in their brushes.

Many movie stars of the 30's and 40's became the glamorous and idolized blond beauties of their time. I am sure that many of the newly blond actresses noticed their hair was becoming drier with each coloring. Lanolin was applied to put moisture back in their hair. The 50's and 60's brought ultra blond shades epitomized by Marilyn Monroe and Jayne Mansfield. Hair was first bleached and then tortured and teased into place. The first hair emergencies probably happened around this time. This was all a precursor to the uber-blond Madonna's hair conditioning treatments documented in her film Truth or Dare. Even with her nightly conditioning treatments, her hair style became shorter and shorter as the "Blond Ambition" tour progressed. You don't have to be a hair genius to figure out what happened.

That brings us to Britney Spears. She made her hair blond, went brown, and then became a blond again. We all know what happened next: She shaved her hair off! Yes, this is a radical way to deal with over-processed hair that might be indicative of issues other than bad hair color, but I am sure that most of us have at least once wished we could start over.

Today I am going to list the most common hair coloring oops! and some simple solutions to give you the color you always wanted.

PROBLEM #1. Picking the color by the picture on the box. Just because you think the hair color on the box is pretty doesn't mean that it's right for you. Remember: the picture on the box is just one part of the formula. Your hair provides the rest of the formula. The end result is a combination of both colors.
WARNING! Previous hair colorings, i.e., excessive streaking or hair made very light or dark, will change the final color.
SOLUTION: Read the box and do a preview test. Every box of at-home hair color will have a chart explaining which hair colors are appropriate for each shade. You must use a shade that is right for your hair color. Not doing so will result in an undesirable color. A preview test will also prevent a bad result. To make a preview test, simply color a strand of hair before you do your whole head. This will show you your final results before you begin. The guess work is gone.

PROBLEM #2. You made your hair too light. When you make your hair too light, it often turns a similar color to your skin tone. This will make you look washed out.
WARNING! If you have to wear more makeup to make your new hair color look right, you picked the wrong shade. Hair color should provide contrast with your complexion that will make you look more vital.
SOLUTION: If your hair is too light, you can tint it back to the appropriate color.
WARNING! Do not use ash shades. This might make your pre-lightened hair turn green.
SOLUTION: If your hair is colored blond, use a shade with some red in it. This will prevent a green cast from occurring. If it is a light brown with orange undertones, you can use a neutral shade. Check the hair color every five minutes. Hair that has been previously colored is porous and can soak up hair color quickly.

PROBLEM # 3. You made your hair too dark. This happens when you pick the wrong shade and did not do a preview test to see the results before beginning the color process. This is the most difficult color problem to resolve.
SOLUTION: I would strongly suggest going to a salon and seeing a professional. This type of corrective coloring is much too difficult to do at home. It could take an extended period of time for you to achieve your desired result.

PROBLEM #4. White highlights or highlights placed so close together that the end result looks like a solid hair color. White highlights usually happen when someone is trying to make their hair brighter. White highlights look like frosted grey hair. This actually makes your color dull. Solid highlights result in a loss of contrast. Roots are present almost immediately and all depth and texture is gone.
WARNING! Highlights look more ash once the hair is dried.
SOLUTION: To correct white highlights, use a true semi-permanent color to add gold, warmth or depth. When it's time to retouch your highlights, process the color for a shorter time. Watch the color develop. Rinsing the highlights at the appropriate time will result in the desired color. Placing a few bolder strokes of color randomly on your head will give you a brighter look.

PROBLEM #5. Uneven hair color. Nothing shouts "I color my hair and do it badly" more than light roots and dark ends. Color can grab darker on the ends of your hair shaft if it is porous. This happens if you continually work the color all over your hair at every touchup.
SOLUTION: Place the color on regrowth only. Let the color develop for 25-30 minutes. Work the color through the ends of the hair for no more than 5 minutes. Do not work the color through the ends of the hair if it already too dark.

PROBLEM #6. A dark wall of color around the face. The hair around the face is often a finer texture than the rest of the head. Hair color is determined by texture as well as shade. Fine hair takes color quicker than course hair.
SOLUTION: If hair is dark around your hairline, paint on a few highlights around your face with a hair painting kit. Leave highlights on for 7-10 minutes. To prevent dark hairline on your next touchup, use a hair color a half-shade lighter around your face than you used on the rest of your head. This will prevent a dark hairline and keep color looking natural.

These are some of the biggest problems with hair color. Most of them are easy to correct and prevent with a little patience and common sense. My best piece of advice is to take your time and read all the directions. At-home hair color is easy to use and foolproof when you follow the directions. Salon clients should find a colorist with an aesthetic that they admire. Have a continuing conversation with the colorist. A good colorist will constantly be changing your formula. You should be part of the process. Think before you color and you will never have to say, "Oops, I did it again!"

Summer is here and it's time to show off your body. I am not talking about your bikini body. I am talking about your hair's body. Thin might be in, but plump hair is where it's at. Unfortunately, we all don't have full bouncing hair. Some of us were born with fine hair that has little or no body. Fine hair tends to look good right after shampooing and then almost immediately falls flat. Nothing can be more of a downer than feeling sexy and realizing your hair looks limp. But there's no need to sweat about fine hair this summer. Here are some simple do's and don'ts to keep your hair looking great all day long.

1. Start with the right haircut. Shorter hair works best when you have fine hair. This will make hair with the finest texture look as full as possible. Extremely fine hair should be worn as short as your face shape will allow. If your hair is fine but has a bit of weight, a chin-length bob works best. The longest fine hair should be cut just above the shoulder with barely there long layers. If hair tends to separate or look see-through, it's too long.
2. Use a light shampoo and conditioner. Heavy shampoos and conditioners will weigh down fine hair. Apply conditioner to ends of hair only, avoiding the scalp area. Be sure to thoroughly rinse after shampooing and conditioning.
3. Hair color is the secret weapon to end flat hair. Besides covering grey or making your shade lighter or brighter, hair color adds body. Semi-permanent hair color coats the hair and permanent hair color is deposited in the shaft of the hair, making it feel thicker. Highlights or tone-on-tone color give texture that adds volume to hair.
4. Sparingly use styling products that add volume without weighing hair down. Root lifts, mousses and hair sprays work best on fine hair. Pomades and silicone serums can weigh down fine hair. Apply styling products to roots of hair only. This will keep ends of hair light, full and touchable.
5. It's all about the blow dry. A good blow dry is essential to having full hair. The easiest way to add volume is to tilt your head over and blow dry hair. When it's dry, flip head back and you will have instant volume. To add additional lift, use a brush to raise roots from scalp, section by section. The roots must be completely dry.

Fine hair will never be thick but there is no reason why it can't look full. The right hair cut, hair color and grooming can give your hair the voluminous look you always wanted. Now that your skinny hair days are over, enjoy your new life as a full body woman.

Watch Video: More easy hair fixes!

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Father's Day 2008 is June 15. Now is the time to think about a special gift for dad. Modern dads don't fit into the traditional father mode. Brad Pitt, David Beckham, Johnny Depp, Matt Damon, Hugh Jackman or Sean "Diddy" Combs are all fathers. Would you buy them a tie or a bottle of cologne for Father's Day? I don't think so! You are probably thinking, "My dad doesn't look like those guys," and you might be right. That doesn't mean your father doesn't want to look his best. He can be a hip dad, a jock, or as traditional as a Ralph Lauren ad. He can even be a sweats-and-favorite-T-shirt dad. No matter his style, a man's mini makeover (mmm) is a present that dads will have fun with and be talking about for years to come.

All men love being groomed and pampered even if they act like they can't be bothered. I promise that when family, friends and coworkers tell your dad how great he looks, he will be thrilled and beam with pride that you gave him the most special gift of an mmm.

Organizing an mmm is easy. The first step is to think about your dad's life style. What kind of guy is he? Don't try to make him look like something he's not. He won't keep up his new look if he feels it's not who he is. A man's comfort zone regarding his appearance is small and men are often reluctant to try new looks. Refine your dad's look and he will love his mmm.

Start by finding the appropriate hair stylist or barber who can evaluate which cut would work best with your dad's hair and life style. The haircut is the most important determining factor of a man's appearance. It should look great and require little grooming outside of monthly shapings. Most men don't fuss with their appearance. Their haircuts must be wash and wear. I hardly see a man use a comb or a brush at the gym, never mind a blow dryer.

If your dad's hair is full, he can wear it almost any style. Men with curly hair should keep the sides short because it has a tendency to grow out, not down. Dads with thinning hair on top should also be aware of keeping their sides short. This will give the illusion of more hair on top of the head. Comb-overs never work. Tell your dad how much better he will look and how easy his life will be if he surrenders to his receding hairline. This is a tough conversation, but your dad will be forever grateful once he accepts your advice.

Often men who are losing the hair on their head choose to make up for it by growing facial hair. If your dad has facial hair, he must keep it trimmed. Growing it long looks eccentric, not good. My best advice for facial hair is that less is more.

All women say that grey hair looks best on men and they are right. This doesn't mean that all men like to look grey. Most men work out, go jogging, or play their favorite sport. This keeps them looking vital. Why should men have to look older than their years because they are grey?

Men usually conjure images of Elvis with shoe-polished black hair or that hideous orange hue when they think about hair color. I am happy to say those days are long gone. Hair color for men is actually much simpler than for women. Women love to change their hair color. Men only want to maintain their natural color by blending away some of their grey hairs. Men's coloring products are gentler than women's hair color because they contain no ammonia. This means they will not lighten hair to a different color or turn orange. Men's hair color should only be left on the hair for 10 to 15 minutes. This will insure a translucent color, avoiding any chance of looking fake.

There are many brands of men's color for all those who want to color their hair at home. At-home hair color works if you pick the right shade and follow the directions. Picking a shade slightly lighter than you think you need will help you avoid any chance of a dark, artificial look.

To put dad totally over the moon, arrange for a manicure and (if you think he will go for it) make a pedicure appointment too. Once he is in the chair, he will think he's died and gone to heaven. If he resists, offer to do it for him at home. He will feel pampered and loved.

The one thing all fathers have in common is their unconditional love for their children. Father's Day is the time for us to let our dads know how much we love and appreciate them. An mmm is a thoughtful gift he will always remember. Oh yes, be sure to give him a big hug too! Happy Father's Day!

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More from Louis Licari

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The Plaza Ambush Makeover was on Wednesday this week, instead of Friday. This morning, as the rain poured down, two excited candidates, visiting New York from Colorado, were picked for fantastic makeovers.

Watch the segment from TODAY What do you think of the ladies' new looks? Leave a comment or question below!

And if you missed any of the other Plaza Ambush Makeovers you can catch up here.

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More from Louis Licari

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Well it’s the weekend and I find myself on another plane. I have a shoot in Palm Beach. I left New York this morning at 7:55am and I am returning this evening at 6:20 pm. The Jet Blue kiosk was down and everyone had to check in the old-fashioned way at the ticket counter. It took forever and I was a nervous wreck that I would miss my plane. I finally got my ticket and ran to queue up in the security line. My heart was racing. The line was moving at a snail’s pace. I knew that the “my plane is about to leave” line would fall on deaf ears. Everyone was running late and hoping to make their flights. It seemed like every suitcase had to be checked. Most of the time it was because there were containers of liquid in the bags containing more than the 3.2.-oz. limit. Do you know what turned out to be the biggest culprit causing most of the delays? Shampoos, conditioners and styling products hidden in the depths of luggage slowed down the line to a standstill. I was smiling and crying at the same time when the lady ahead of me was busted for my own “Louis Licari” shampoo! I thought for sure it was some sort of karma. I finally got through security and even had time to buy the Sunday papers before I ran on board. I made the plane. All was well.

As I finally took my seat on the plane I breathed a sigh of relief. I realized that my years of “spanning the globe” had paid off. I knew how to maneuver airports and hotels in the most efficient way possible. I realized I had become a rather savvy traveler. Today I am going to share my “rules for the road” that have helped me travel as easily as possible.

 LESS IS MORE- Start to pack your tote a day before you have to leave. This will allow you a chance to do an edit. We all have a tendency to pack more than we need for any one trip. This is a major traffic slowdown. The more things you bring with you, the more chance you’ll have of a bag check. Think about your beauty routine at home. Can you reduce the number of products you need to take with you? Remember that almost every hotel provides shampoos, conditioners and blow dryers. It probably won’t be the same as the ones you use at home, but for a few days does it really matter? I would suggest bringing your favorite “must have” styling product only.

SWAP BOTTLES- Remember the rule is no more than 3.2 oz. It is judged by the size of the bottle, not the remaining amount of product. Pour products into appropriate-size bottles. Make sure they provide a tight seal. You can find the containers at your favorite drug or beauty supply store. Place each product in a differently-shaped bottle. Remember you won’t be able to label your products easily. If they have different shapes, you can easily identify them even in the shower.

HERE’S TO A NEW YOU- Your hair probably will look different on holiday and that’s a good thing. Vacation time is a great time to try out more relaxed hair styles. It’s the perfect time to let your hair dry naturally, use a faux pony tail, try a new hair accessory, or place your hair in a simple twist. Experiment until you find the right look for you. A good haircut is essential. When your hair has the right shape for its texture and your face, it will always look good no matter how it’s been styled. If you must look more finished, learn how to manage the style you want to wear. You can always use a few Velcro rollers to make hair straighter or add waves. If you’re still not pleased with your practice blow outs, call your hotel and ask them for the best hairdresser in the area. They will know whom to contact and probably make an appointment for you, too.

COLOR IF YOU MUST-You must color your hair if you have grey hair showing or if your hair is exceptionally faded or brassy (oxidized). If you feel okay with your hair color, wait to touch it up until you come home. This will allow you to correct your color after you’ve had fun in the sun. Remember not to make your hair as bright or as light in summer. It will lighten even if you think you are staying out of the sun.

Look relaxed even if you are taking a stay-cation instead of a vacation. Your hair is a great way to put yourself in a holiday frame of mind. Slash your grooming time. June is here and it’s warm outside. The last one in the pool spent too much time fussing with her hair.